Altitude 527m a.s.l
Knee jam rest on Bobo dodo (L1) at Fraguel © climberchristy
Fraguel is a stunning cliff that has the best hard sport climbing on the island, attracting climbers from all over the world. It is located in a beautiful wooded valley near the town of Bunyola, and is hidden from almost every direction, including the one used to approach the crag. The crag gets the sun until about 2 o'clock in the afternoon, which is a benefit in warm weather when it can offer pleasant afternoon shade. At cooler times, the crag can be extremely cold - even in April. This is especially true when there is any wind, since it howls down the gorge below the crag. If you're planning a long spell of belay duty, while your mate 'dogs' his or her 8a, take a big duvet jacket. Most of the harder routes will stay dry in moderate rain, but the tufas do start to seep after any prolonged rainfall. The easier routes at either end offer little shelter in the rain, but usually dry fairly quickly.
From the centre of Bunyola, drive towards Santa María. Turn left as you leave the village (this is 200m before a bar on the left). Follow the narrow road/track, gradually gaining height, through lots of hairpin bends. Just after the 5km marker, park the car carefully by a path on the right-hand side of the track - leave enough room for large forestry lorries to get past. Follow the path from the parking area for about 60m, to a small clearing. Keep to the left-hand fork. Dive left into the bushes, 15m after the fork, emerging immediately into an old charcoal pit (a grassy circle). Leave this on its opposite side and wander through the trees. Take care not to miss a right-hand turn in the path and continue until a tree blocks the path after 210m. At this point, break out rightwards to the cliff edge and scramble down a short, awkward groove with a rope and metal rungs in place. The path leads back easily right (looking out) under the cliff.
In 2014 the local administration was said to have imposed a charge for all recreational users (at a toll booth on the road up) for access to the area, but this seems to have faltered. Please report any changes or access updates to Rockfax/UKC.
|Hi, tried to go to Fraguel today, following the approach directions in rockfax there is now a locked gate on the small dirt track blocking the way to the crag. It's about 3km from the suggested parking so will add a fair amount of time onto the approach. There is 2 spaces limited parking the bend before but no where to turn around, had to reverse down 4 bends! No other parking so we bailed.
Annika Marie - 15/Sep/19
|There is now a locked gate halfway up the road the approach description recommends
Dean177 - 04/Jun/19
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