Rockfax Description
Drop down the slope below Scandalous and head rightwards to a block that is hidden from above. From the block beneath gain a lip hold and top out. © Rockfax
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| blockhead8a | 13 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: 11/10/24 - The lip hold is still broken and the two pieces are still tucked away on the starting jug. We did manage to re-climb the problem in it’s current state using faint ripples a few inches above the broken lip hold. The ripples are pretty poor so you can’t pull up to get a sight of the pocket and it ends up being a blind slap. We resorted to using a leg swing ninja kick/pogo thing which was a very cool move. I guess it’s little harder than it used to be but hadn’t tried it before - it seemed about 7a+ to me. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 11/10/24 - The lip hold is still broken and the two pieces are still tucked away on the starting jug. We did manage to re-climb the problem in it’s current state using faint ripples a few inches above the broken lip hold. The ripples are pretty poor so you can’t pull up to get a sight of the pocket and it ends up being a blind slap. We resorted to using a leg swing ninja kick/pogo thing which was a very cool move. I guess it’s little harder than it used to be but hadn’t tried it before - it seemed about 7a+ to me. |
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| TBromley | 2 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: Hold still broken as of 31/08/24, although most of the pieces of the hold are neatly collected on the starting jug. Anyone fancy sika-ing or glueing it back on? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hold still broken as of 31/08/24, although most of the pieces of the hold are neatly collected on the starting jug. Anyone fancy sika-ing or glueing it back on? |
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| Kyle Rance | 27 Apr, 2024 |
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βeta: For anyone glue / salvage savvy. I had a look for the pieces, found most of them and put them on the starting ledge. With a bit of know how it might be fixable. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: For anyone glue / salvage savvy. I had a look for the pieces, found most of them and put them on the starting ledge. With a bit of know how it might be fixable. |
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| Joel | 8 Apr, 2024 |
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βeta: Added photo of the hold post break, not sure if the original hold was salvaged or if it disintegrated. Would still be possible without just a tad harder to stick the cutloose now | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Added photo of the hold post break, not sure if the original hold was salvaged or if it disintegrated. Would still be possible without just a tad harder to stick the cutloose now |
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| Archiebald Gaskins | 1 Apr, 2024 |
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βeta: Saw a fat guy (not actually fat) break the left hand hold on the lip on 31/03/24. Still doable but probably a lot harder. 6a | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Saw a fat guy (not actually fat) break the left hand hold on the lip on 31/03/24. Still doable but probably a lot harder. 6a |
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Route of Interest
Exile on Main Street
Grade: f7A ***
(Stanage Popular)