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14m.

Rockfax Description
The final Froggatt classic and very photogenic. Climb the slippery ramp then the side-wall diagonally leftwards to a fat wire. Make a barn-door move left to the huge jug on the arete, then meander up this to a spectacular finish. Easier for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling 1962.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), On Peak Rock, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, The Gritlist, Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets., 2020 Trips, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., London Wall training

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ihem 23 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I found it really hard as a shorty to reach the holds! (165cm) but still and amazing route!!
βeta?
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βeta: I found it really hard as a shorty to reach the holds! (165cm) but still and amazing route!!
Alison Cairns 27 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Did this y'day and reckon the grade is probably between 4c and 5b depending on your reach - for me its hard 5a. I'm 5'6 with average ape index and i couldn't reach the arete but could reach a reasonable hold in the break up and left, then had to fully commit to a poor low side pull for the right to make the reach. Its then another slightly harder move if you can't reach straight to the bottom of the flake/jug of the good foothold. Top route tho!
βeta?
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βeta: Did this y'day and reckon the grade is probably between 4c and 5b depending on your reach - for me its hard 5a. I'm 5'6 with average ape index and i couldn't reach the arete but could reach a reasonable hold in the break up and left, then had to fully commit to a poor low side pull for the right to make the reach. Its then another slightly harder move if you can't reach straight to the bottom of the flake/jug of the good foothold. Top route tho!
Iggy_B 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Why didn't Brown get the FA on this? He couldn't have missed it as he did everything else in this area.
βeta?
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βeta: Why didn't Brown get the FA on this? He couldn't have missed it as he did everything else in this area.
Alex Mason 22 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: best route ever exposure is ace and all the holds are positive nice balancey move unto the arete
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βeta: best route ever exposure is ace and all the holds are positive nice balancey move unto the arete
chris sm 19 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. I thought it was quite low in the grade.
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βeta: Fantastic route. I thought it was quite low in the grade.
Alex@home 10 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Si - found myself in a similar sounding position. Found the trick was to toe hook the arete with your left foot and then reach up to the jug with your left hand - hats off for having the balls to dyno onsite tho! Top, top route - definitely in my top 5 HVSs
βeta?
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βeta: Si - found myself in a similar sounding position. Found the trick was to toe hook the arete with your left foot and then reach up to the jug with your left hand - hats off for having the balls to dyno onsite tho! Top, top route - definitely in my top 5 HVSs
minimike 8 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Oi Jacko, who are you calling a shortar*e?
βeta?
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βeta: Oi Jacko, who are you calling a shortar*e?
Ander 11 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: what a tip-top route. Not particularly strenous, well protected, fabulous moves. GREAT.
βeta?
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βeta: what a tip-top route. Not particularly strenous, well protected, fabulous moves. GREAT.
tom r 20 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I have to say for grading issues that if you asked me to define a grit HVS I would say this is about spot on.
βeta?
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βeta: I have to say for grading issues that if you asked me to define a grit HVS I would say this is about spot on.
leon 29 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i gotta admit it actually seems to get harder every time i do it!!! hvs 5a
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βeta: i gotta admit it actually seems to get harder every time i do it!!! hvs 5a
leon 10 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i agree that this climb feels more like vs 4c. it's still a great climb & i love the move onto the arete -once you're there just walk up the ladder!
βeta?
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βeta: i agree that this climb feels more like vs 4c. it's still a great climb & i love the move onto the arete -once you're there just walk up the ladder!
Iggy_B 29 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't know there was a bloody great jug til after I'd made the move
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βeta: Didn't know there was a bloody great jug til after I'd made the move
Jon Greengrass 17 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: At 6' 1" the reach was easy the gear was bomber, felt like VS 4c. Awesome route still.
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βeta: At 6' 1" the reach was easy the gear was bomber, felt like VS 4c. Awesome route still.
Monk 28 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route but I found it quite hard. Maybe it's because I'm short of reach? Once you get that jug though.....mmmmmm!
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent route but I found it quite hard. Maybe it's because I'm short of reach? Once you get that jug though.....mmmmmm!
Ram MkiV 24 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: In my opinion, the best classic HVS I've done! (other contenders I've done include Valkyrie, overhanging groove, great western....) However I think this decision could be down to the fact that its never too strenuous and you don't have to jam. The move out to the arete is awesome and you couldn't wish for better protection for it. Then the moves up the arete are easier but in a fantastic position.
βeta?
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βeta: In my opinion, the best classic HVS I've done! (other contenders I've done include Valkyrie, overhanging groove, great western....) However I think this decision could be down to the fact that its never too strenuous and you don't have to jam. The move out to the arete is awesome and you couldn't wish for better protection for it. Then the moves up the arete are easier but in a fantastic position.
Nick Smith - Climbers 20 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best HVS's on grit! Once established on the arete just savour that exposure :-)
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βeta: One of the best HVS's on grit! Once established on the arete just savour that exposure :-)

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Votes cast 502
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Votes cast 482
Votes cast 469
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Joint Effort

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Staden Quarry)