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14m.

Rockfax Description
How can a 6m crack be this hard? One of the most frigged pitches in the Peak, despite its innocuous appearance. The crack leads to the break and an easier upper section on solid jams. For the competent it may be easier to solo than to faff with runners! © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1951.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Eastern Grit Jamming, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, MUMC Ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Froggatt Cracks (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist), Thank god I don't have to do that again, York University Students path to greatness, Memorable Climbs, Peak District Grit Graded List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alex1 5 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This route is a definative grit HVS crack climb, grading it E1 would be a mistake and not fo the route justice
βeta?
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βeta: This route is a definative grit HVS crack climb, grading it E1 would be a mistake and not fo the route justice
pep 8 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: did this today felt like h.v.s. 5b. that said there are several 5b moves in a row!
βeta?
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βeta: did this today felt like h.v.s. 5b. that said there are several 5b moves in a row!
Al Evans 27 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If it is 5c its very easy (try Toy), Certainly much easier to solo, especially if you use a mat.
βeta?
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βeta: If it is 5c its very easy (try Toy), Certainly much easier to solo, especially if you use a mat.
Andy Fielding 28 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did this ages ago after watching others struggle on it. Placed one decent piece in the bottom crack and another in the top section. My Froggatt guide (1978 version) gives this as HVS(-) 5a. I think that's a fair reflection of the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: Did this ages ago after watching others struggle on it. Placed one decent piece in the bottom crack and another in the top section. My Froggatt guide (1978 version) gives this as HVS(-) 5a. I think that's a fair reflection of the grade.
Tobias at Home 17 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't find any 5c moves on it. Lots of 5b in the lower crack though. Gear obviously good but, strenuous to place - makes it E1 5b in my book.... Found the upper crack surprisingly awkward though - 5a?
βeta?
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βeta: Didn't find any 5c moves on it. Lots of 5b in the lower crack though. Gear obviously good but, strenuous to place - makes it E1 5b in my book.... Found the upper crack surprisingly awkward though - 5a?
The old James turnbull 25 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: brillent route, if you like that sort of thing, and i do! great stuff
βeta?
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βeta: brillent route, if you like that sort of thing, and i do! great stuff
Ram MkiV 24 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 'tis a bastard. felt like a battle. not 3 stars, not 5c, not HVS. Did this today, wasn't alot of fun. It's quite polished and battered too. I think E1 5b is the grade. Syaing that, I think The Big Crack is easier. Unless you really like climbing hard cracks don't bother. Even then think twice. Not convinced by the soloing advice either unless you climb cracks a couple of grades harder alot.
βeta?
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βeta: 'tis a bastard. felt like a battle. not 3 stars, not 5c, not HVS. Did this today, wasn't alot of fun. It's quite polished and battered too. I think E1 5b is the grade. Syaing that, I think The Big Crack is easier. Unless you really like climbing hard cracks don't bother. Even then think twice. Not convinced by the soloing advice either unless you climb cracks a couple of grades harder alot.
Alun 14 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There isn't a single 5c move anywhere on it. Just three or four 5b moves on top of each other, with bomber gear everywhere. Which makes it E1 5b in my book, certainly hard for HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: There isn't a single 5c move anywhere on it. Just three or four 5b moves on top of each other, with bomber gear everywhere. Which makes it E1 5b in my book, certainly hard for HVS.
dan_o_b 23 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Felt like 5c to me. Didn't find it hard though. Got to the break and found the sneaky hold and just relaxed a little too much. Next thing I know I'd clattered my girlfriend/belayer in the head. Got up second go.
βeta?
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βeta: Felt like 5c to me. Didn't find it hard though. Got to the break and found the sneaky hold and just relaxed a little too much. Next thing I know I'd clattered my girlfriend/belayer in the head. Got up second go.
nate 13 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think it is 5c. I got stuck by not reading it right, but once I calmed down and used jams (vs layback)it was not too bad. HVS 5b
βeta?
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βeta: I don't think it is 5c. I got stuck by not reading it right, but once I calmed down and used jams (vs layback)it was not too bad. HVS 5b
Stefan Kruger 23 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A mighty struggle. HVS 5c? Maybe. Gear is good, but hard-won, and it certainly felt like every single move was 5c on the lower bit.
βeta?
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βeta: A mighty struggle. HVS 5c? Maybe. Gear is good, but hard-won, and it certainly felt like every single move was 5c on the lower bit.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 224
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 213
Votes cast 174
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Eliminator

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)