Rockfax Description
How can a seven metre crack be this hard? One of the most frigged pitches in the Peak, despite its innocuous appearance. The crack leads to the break and an easier upper section on solid jams. © Rockfax
FA. Don Whillans 1951.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Eastern Grit Jamming , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 50 cracks to Squamish , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , MUMC Ticklist , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Froggatt Cracks (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist) , Thank god I don't have to do that again , York University Students path to greatness , Memorable Climbs , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , Hardest HVSs in the Peak , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Misery Mondays , UKC Guide to Dogging
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| cheque | 5 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: This is one of those routes that people are adamant should be graded HVS but absolutely no one whose top grade is HVS ever does first try. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is one of those routes that people are adamant should be graded HVS but absolutely no one whose top grade is HVS ever does first try. |
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| George Frisby | 26 Mar, 2021 |
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βeta: Might have to be climbing at least a few grades above HVS to solo, top half isn't that easy, and getting onto the ledge itself is kinda awkward. | ||
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βeta: Might have to be climbing at least a few grades above HVS to solo, top half isn't that easy, and getting onto the ledge itself is kinda awkward. |
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| Alex1 | 5 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: This route is a definative grit HVS crack climb, grading it E1 would be a mistake and not fo the route justice | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route is a definative grit HVS crack climb, grading it E1 would be a mistake and not fo the route justice |
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| pep | 8 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: did this today felt like h.v.s. 5b. that said there are several 5b moves in a row! | βeta? | |
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βeta: did this today felt like h.v.s. 5b. that said there are several 5b moves in a row! |
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| Al Evans | 27 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: If it is 5c its very easy (try Toy), Certainly much easier to solo, especially if you use a mat. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If it is 5c its very easy (try Toy), Certainly much easier to solo, especially if you use a mat. |
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| Andy Fielding | 28 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Did this ages ago after watching others struggle on it. Placed one decent piece in the bottom crack and another in the top section. My Froggatt guide (1978 version) gives this as HVS(-) 5a. I think that's a fair reflection of the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did this ages ago after watching others struggle on it. Placed one decent piece in the bottom crack and another in the top section. My Froggatt guide (1978 version) gives this as HVS(-) 5a. I think that's a fair reflection of the grade. |
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| Tobias at Home | 17 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Didn't find any 5c moves on it. Lots of 5b in the lower crack though. Gear obviously good but, strenuous to place - makes it E1 5b in my book.... Found the upper crack surprisingly awkward though - 5a? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didn't find any 5c moves on it. Lots of 5b in the lower crack though. Gear obviously good but, strenuous to place - makes it E1 5b in my book.... Found the upper crack surprisingly awkward though - 5a? |
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| The old James turnbull | 25 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: brillent route, if you like that sort of thing, and i do! great stuff | βeta? | |
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βeta: brillent route, if you like that sort of thing, and i do! great stuff |
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| Ram MkiV | 24 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: 'tis a bastard. felt like a battle. not 3 stars, not 5c, not HVS. Did this today, wasn't alot of fun. It's quite polished and battered too. I think E1 5b is the grade. Syaing that, I think The Big Crack is easier. Unless you really like climbing hard cracks don't bother. Even then think twice. Not convinced by the soloing advice either unless you climb cracks a couple of grades harder alot. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 'tis a bastard. felt like a battle. not 3 stars, not 5c, not HVS. Did this today, wasn't alot of fun. It's quite polished and battered too. I think E1 5b is the grade. Syaing that, I think The Big Crack is easier. Unless you really like climbing hard cracks don't bother. Even then think twice. Not convinced by the soloing advice either unless you climb cracks a couple of grades harder alot. |
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| Alun | 14 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: There isn't a single 5c move anywhere on it. Just three or four 5b moves on top of each other, with bomber gear everywhere. Which makes it E1 5b in my book, certainly hard for HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There isn't a single 5c move anywhere on it. Just three or four 5b moves on top of each other, with bomber gear everywhere. Which makes it E1 5b in my book, certainly hard for HVS. |
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| dan_o_b | 23 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: Felt like 5c to me. Didn't find it hard though. Got to the break and found the sneaky hold and just relaxed a little too much. Next thing I know I'd clattered my girlfriend/belayer in the head. Got up second go. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt like 5c to me. Didn't find it hard though. Got to the break and found the sneaky hold and just relaxed a little too much. Next thing I know I'd clattered my girlfriend/belayer in the head. Got up second go. |
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| nate | 13 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: I don't think it is 5c. I got stuck by not reading it right, but once I calmed down and used jams (vs layback)it was not too bad. HVS 5b | ||
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βeta: I don't think it is 5c. I got stuck by not reading it right, but once I calmed down and used jams (vs layback)it was not too bad. HVS 5b |
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| Stefan Kruger | 23 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: A mighty struggle. HVS 5c? Maybe. Gear is good, but hard-won, and it certainly felt like every single move was 5c on the lower bit. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A mighty struggle. HVS 5c? Maybe. Gear is good, but hard-won, and it certainly felt like every single move was 5c on the lower bit. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Froggatt Edge
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Cave Crack
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Laddow)