UKC

6m.

Rockfax Description
The reachy left arete of the smart slab, with gear in the low break. Hard for the short. A fair intro to harder gritstone aretes. © Rockfax

FA. Graham Hoey 1986.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes

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User Date Notes
JamieSparkes 17 Sep, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: Softer than cotton wool, or a pointless eliminate if you choose not to place the perfect face height cam before embarking on the admittedly fun moves up the arete, E1 5b?
βeta?
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βeta: Softer than cotton wool, or a pointless eliminate if you choose not to place the perfect face height cam before embarking on the admittedly fun moves up the arete, E1 5b?
Sam Doyle 21 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I'd say being tall was a disadvantage as you miss out on a brilliant move up to the flake. You'd have to be pretty unlucky to hit the deck from a fall at the crux. Cheers Dr. Hoey
βeta?
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βeta: I'd say being tall was a disadvantage as you miss out on a brilliant move up to the flake. You'd have to be pretty unlucky to hit the deck from a fall at the crux. Cheers Dr. Hoey
IOAN D 5 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Is it a route??? yes its a nice problem , shame that it's not longer. grade bout right E3 5b i recon.
βeta?
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βeta: Is it a route??? yes its a nice problem , shame that it's not longer. grade bout right E3 5b i recon.
match 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Downgrade to E3 correct. Trickier for the short, but prob still E3. Lovely route.
βeta?
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βeta: Downgrade to E3 correct. Trickier for the short, but prob still E3. Lovely route.
Chris the Tall 15 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Long reach is a definate advantage. My first E3 onsight, but I have to admit it only felt like E2 5b.
βeta?
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βeta: Long reach is a definate advantage. My first E3 onsight, but I have to admit it only felt like E2 5b.
Andy Clarke 25 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I tested the gear & ended up swinging gently to & fro, upside down, about a foot above the ground. A fine sequence of balancey moves, once worked out. But I'll be ticking it in the definitive.
βeta?
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βeta: I tested the gear & ended up swinging gently to & fro, upside down, about a foot above the ground. A fine sequence of balancey moves, once worked out. But I'll be ticking it in the definitive.
Tom Gilbert 30 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: You must've lost a lot of skin.
βeta?
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βeta: You must've lost a lot of skin.
mark s 16 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i soloed it,felt about e2.
βeta?
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βeta: i soloed it,felt about e2.
Tom Gilbert 16 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The gear will hold you off the ground on the final reach for the flake.
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βeta: The gear will hold you off the ground on the final reach for the flake.
Michael Hood 1 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: When I did this in the 80s it was graded HVS 4c!!! (I think this was a legacy of Bancroft's Recent Developments) and thinking it felt a little tricky at the grade I found you can place a runner to protect the crux in the diagonal flake (visible in the photo of Luisa onsighting) just to the left of RH Crack. This makes it about E1 5c and you can get it in without going off route or touching (with your hands) any rock off route. Useful to know if you get scared.
βeta?
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βeta: When I did this in the 80s it was graded HVS 4c!!! (I think this was a legacy of Bancroft's Recent Developments) and thinking it felt a little tricky at the grade I found you can place a runner to protect the crux in the diagonal flake (visible in the photo of Luisa onsighting) just to the left of RH Crack. This makes it about E1 5c and you can get it in without going off route or touching (with your hands) any rock off route. Useful to know if you get scared.
Monk 1 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It's all over in a few seconds but what a few seconds! I think this is reach dependant (it wasn't just one move for me!). I found it hard and technical and I don't think the gear is high enough to catch you if you blow the moves to the good holds.
βeta?
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βeta: It's all over in a few seconds but what a few seconds! I think this is reach dependant (it wasn't just one move for me!). I found it hard and technical and I don't think the gear is high enough to catch you if you blow the moves to the good holds.
Monk 18 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It gets E4 in the Froggatt guide.
βeta?
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βeta: It gets E4 in the Froggatt guide.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 82
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Queer Street

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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