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12m.

Rockfax Description
One of the classic Froggatt slabs which is always good fodder in the great grade debate. Climb to a hole (cam and small wire) rock up and right to a rest then pad to safety. Scary but mild. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1948.

Ticklists

Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Best slab climbs of the UK, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Jake's Freshers meet ticklist, World Graded List, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, AMC Uni Ticklist, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Froggatt Slabs (Eastern Grit recommended ticklist), The Gritlist, Thank god I don't have to do that again, York University Students path to greatness, Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets., 2020 Trips, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags.

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User Date Notes
shaunnorfolk 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Insitu tricam is still in and bomber. Thank you tomyoung's party.
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βeta: Insitu tricam is still in and bomber. Thank you tomyoung's party.
TomYoung 18 Sep Show βeta
βeta: May be an insitu Tricam in the hole that our party couldn't manage to get out.
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βeta: May be an insitu Tricam in the hole that our party couldn't manage to get out.
MJS 30 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Malakas first outdoor lead. He wasnt good at placing gear so I sent him up it, as placing gear isnt a big issue.
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βeta: Malakas first outdoor lead. He wasnt good at placing gear so I sent him up it, as placing gear isnt a big issue.
Fraser kid 18 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Traversing left at the start of the slab, stepping into a big dish then using a small pocket above is definitely cheating
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βeta: Traversing left at the start of the slab, stepping into a big dish then using a small pocket above is definitely cheating
JoeGross 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely HVS: if you enjoy extremely run out routes? Crux moves above the only two pieces of gear? Significant Elvis leg whilst trying to smear a pebble? If not? definitely E1!
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βeta: Definitely HVS: if you enjoy extremely run out routes? Crux moves above the only two pieces of gear? Significant Elvis leg whilst trying to smear a pebble? If not? definitely E1!
Iain Thow 17 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Is this the most discussed grade on grit? E1 5a for me - and don't think you've finished one you're on the top slab. I know at least 2 people who've needed a top rope for the last move.
 
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βeta: Is this the most discussed grade on grit? E1 5a for me - and don't think you've finished one you're on the top slab. I know at least 2 people who've needed a top rope for the last move.
DomClarke 29 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Tricam was the best placement for the pocket, can't remember if it was blue or brown
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βeta: Tricam was the best placement for the pocket, can't remember if it was blue or brown
neil O'Brien 23 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: for some reason i was under the impresion that this was a vs 4b (beer and guidebooks the night befor )im still under that impresion
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βeta: for some reason i was under the impresion that this was a vs 4b (beer and guidebooks the night befor )im still under that impresion
howlingbaboon 31 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route! I managed to blindly place my largest wired tricam (black) in the hole after I'd used it as a handhold to get up. I didn't dare tug it but it seemed OK, and I still had a foothold (it did however pop when pulling the rope through, but tricams often do). Maybe the grade depends on whether your belayer is prepared to jump off the ledge at the bottom if you fall?
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βeta: Great route! I managed to blindly place my largest wired tricam (black) in the hole after I'd used it as a handhold to get up. I didn't dare tug it but it seemed OK, and I still had a foothold (it did however pop when pulling the rope through, but tricams often do). Maybe the grade depends on whether your belayer is prepared to jump off the ledge at the bottom if you fall?
Martin Cleaver 18 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: this route is a doddle! friend 2 is easy to place. nice head game
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βeta: this route is a doddle! friend 2 is easy to place. nice head game
Peter Bradwell 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Graeme, between 15 and 20 years ago I was belaying a friend on this, he fell off the top slab and he didn't hit the deck, he stopped at the first break, admittedly I had to run away from the rock and when he came onto the rope I was back at the bottom of the route in a split second, but we both escaped with only a few bruises.
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βeta: Graeme, between 15 and 20 years ago I was belaying a friend on this, he fell off the top slab and he didn't hit the deck, he stopped at the first break, admittedly I had to run away from the rock and when he came onto the rope I was back at the bottom of the route in a split second, but we both escaped with only a few bruises.
Oli 21 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The biggest Dmm 3CU (1 3/4?) or an orange alien (i think) fit the pocket quite well.
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βeta: The biggest Dmm 3CU (1 3/4?) or an orange alien (i think) fit the pocket quite well.
gb83 12 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: as with the majority it was my first E1 lead, although the crux is well protected (had friend + nut in pocket and 2.5 friend in low crack too) there is serious deckout potential at the top.Id be lying if i said i wasnt freaked on the slab. not ideal to do in the heat of the midday june sun!chalk-a-plenty!!!!
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βeta: as with the majority it was my first E1 lead, although the crux is well protected (had friend + nut in pocket and 2.5 friend in low crack too) there is serious deckout potential at the top.Id be lying if i said i wasnt freaked on the slab. not ideal to do in the heat of the midday june sun!chalk-a-plenty!!!!
Glen 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This climb always generates controversy! Look at how many comments there are! So, to add my tupence worth: Probably HVS, although good climbers have come to grief on it in the past....
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βeta: This climb always generates controversy! Look at how many comments there are! So, to add my tupence worth: Probably HVS, although good climbers have come to grief on it in the past....
Si dH 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: An HVS 4b/c slab with one awkward 5a move below it. Never E1 although I have done even softer ones!
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βeta: An HVS 4b/c slab with one awkward 5a move below it. Never E1 although I have done even softer ones!
Andrew Barker 6 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, even better onsight solo. Upper slab feels worrying but you could take so many different foot sequences up it.
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βeta: Great route, even better onsight solo. Upper slab feels worrying but you could take so many different foot sequences up it.
irish paul 3 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: At Swanage it'd be top roped and polished to buggery.Nice route, simple enough but a real mind game, much enjoyed
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βeta: At Swanage it'd be top roped and polished to buggery.Nice route, simple enough but a real mind game, much enjoyed
Owen W-G 3 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Ha ha. Boizee, you should see what the E1s (or E3s for that matter) are like in the Ruckle! 3PS is soft HVS btw and a pleasant solo.
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βeta: Ha ha. Boizee, you should see what the E1s (or E3s for that matter) are like in the Ruckle! 3PS is soft HVS btw and a pleasant solo.
Oli 2 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I think you will find that most swanage routes are high in the grade. They make peak grades look soft.
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βeta: I think you will find that most swanage routes are high in the grade. They make peak grades look soft.
dodfoster 9 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: on-sight soloed it and its bloomin' scary, especially in the sticky heat of july!
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βeta: on-sight soloed it and its bloomin' scary, especially in the sticky heat of july!
Paz 7 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: What grade did Joe Brown give it? Apparently they threw a cheeky top rope down some last great problems before the first ascent in those days, but nonetheless this must have been a brilliant effort wearing 1948 climbing shoes (pumps? socks?) and with 1948 gear (any at all?) in the pocket.
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βeta: What grade did Joe Brown give it? Apparently they threw a cheeky top rope down some last great problems before the first ascent in those days, but nonetheless this must have been a brilliant effort wearing 1948 climbing shoes (pumps? socks?) and with 1948 gear (any at all?) in the pocket.
derekm 28 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My mate John D took a big fall from the final move on 27 June: luckily the mid size rock in the upper pocket held beautifully and his second John W jumped: he reckoned he had his wallet out on the bar of the Chequers when the rope came tight! Leader missed a decking and injury by six inches after a high-speed face-out slide... a bit too spectacular for comfort
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βeta: My mate John D took a big fall from the final move on 27 June: luckily the mid size rock in the upper pocket held beautifully and his second John W jumped: he reckoned he had his wallet out on the bar of the Chequers when the rope came tight! Leader missed a decking and injury by six inches after a high-speed face-out slide... a bit too spectacular for comfort
Albie 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I got suckered in to leading this as it 'looked' so easy from down below [I'm a VS / HVS leader by trade]. Got the crux no problem but the higher i got the less bottle i had. Close but no cigar - thanks again to Joe and Steve for the rescue.
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βeta: I got suckered in to leading this as it 'looked' so easy from down below [I'm a VS / HVS leader by trade]. Got the crux no problem but the higher i got the less bottle i had. Close but no cigar - thanks again to Joe and Steve for the rescue.
MNA123 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed it and shat my pants!
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βeta: Soloed it and shat my pants!
Sean_J 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If this was in Yorkshire, it'd be given VS! Nice route though.
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βeta: If this was in Yorkshire, it'd be given VS! Nice route though.
Andy Hobson 22 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It's straightforward HVS. Good gear (if you're halfway to being competent) for the crux, and a boldish 4b slab above. It would be a boulder problem in Yorkshire.
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βeta: It's straightforward HVS. Good gear (if you're halfway to being competent) for the crux, and a boldish 4b slab above. It would be a boulder problem in Yorkshire.
Jon Read 12 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Australian grades for TPS: marvellous! This could run for another decade yet.
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βeta: Australian grades for TPS: marvellous! This could run for another decade yet.
Dave C 11 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed it onsight just a couple of months after arriving in Britain back in '89 and thought it to be about Oz grade 17/18. With a good runner by the crux it is definitely HVS.
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βeta: Soloed it onsight just a couple of months after arriving in Britain back in '89 and thought it to be about Oz grade 17/18. With a good runner by the crux it is definitely HVS.
MeMeMe 31 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It's E1! Oh no it isn't! Oh, yes it is! Etc. Who cares? Just enjoy the route. Lovely sense of being a bit runout at the top but not too worrying if you just concentrate on the moves and put any thoughts of falling off from your mind (no point in worrying about it by the time you are on the slab). You probably don't want to climb it in the rain (as person after me found out after spending an age at bottom of slab).
βeta?
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βeta: It's E1! Oh no it isn't! Oh, yes it is! Etc. Who cares? Just enjoy the route. Lovely sense of being a bit runout at the top but not too worrying if you just concentrate on the moves and put any thoughts of falling off from your mind (no point in worrying about it by the time you are on the slab). You probably don't want to climb it in the rain (as person after me found out after spending an age at bottom of slab).
Andy Farnell 13 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first HVS onsight solo many years ago. Never in a million years should this be given E1.
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βeta: My first HVS onsight solo many years ago. Never in a million years should this be given E1.
Monk 1 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Just for a bit of balance - it wasn't my first E1 lead and I thought the friend was good. Very easy for E1 though. Great route.
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βeta: Just for a bit of balance - it wasn't my first E1 lead and I thought the friend was good. Very easy for E1 though. Great route.
leon 10 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: this was my second e1 (two sided triangle was my first) and i decided to solo it (thinking that there probably wouldn't be much protection anyway). the friction move near the stop had me well scared & i was buzzing after making it. a great introduction to e1!
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βeta: this was my second e1 (two sided triangle was my first) and i decided to solo it (thinking that there probably wouldn't be much protection anyway). the friction move near the stop had me well scared & i was buzzing after making it. a great introduction to e1!
Whealiebob 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 too. I found it quite reasonable although my second said he would have dropped his load leading it!! Tip: don't use the pocket for a foot hold - its miles easier mantling the little slopey ledge.
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βeta: My first E1 too. I found it quite reasonable although my second said he would have dropped his load leading it!! Tip: don't use the pocket for a foot hold - its miles easier mantling the little slopey ledge.
Mike Lee 25 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: First E1 lead! 22/08/03 Enjoyed it very much, protection went in easy, nut & friend, bit shakey on rock over but it was good!
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βeta: First E1 lead! 22/08/03 Enjoyed it very much, protection went in easy, nut & friend, bit shakey on rock over but it was good!
withey 25 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I did this about 5 minutes before Andy T (above). The extra nut made me feel safer, but I was the guy who caught the one who fell! Belayer, and spotter!!! Good first E1. If you like exposure, it's wicked!
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βeta: I did this about 5 minutes before Andy T (above). The extra nut made me feel safer, but I was the guy who caught the one who fell! Belayer, and spotter!!! Good first E1. If you like exposure, it's wicked!
Paz 30 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The mind game is completely different soloing, well worth while.
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βeta: The mind game is completely different soloing, well worth while.
Robo 27 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Another great route by Joe. The gear protects the crux very adaquately, and the final slab is relatively quite easy. It'd be climbed with hands in pockets if it was 2 metres up! Saying thatgetting my hand into the flake at the top was a great relief!
βeta?
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βeta: Another great route by Joe. The gear protects the crux very adaquately, and the final slab is relatively quite easy. It'd be climbed with hands in pockets if it was 2 metres up! Saying thatgetting my hand into the flake at the top was a great relief!

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Great Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Duke's Quarry)