UKC

Climbs 84
Rocktype Volcanic tuff
Altitude 640m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Plaque Slab, Right side, Upper Gaitkins. © Purple

Crag features

A delightfully situated series of buttresses, generally up to about 16m in height. There are a few longer routes and many shorter, mostly on excellent rock. Broadly divided into Upper Gaitkins (further left on the hillside when viewed from below) and Lower Gaitkins (further right and lower!), a little exploration is required to discover all the component buttresses.
Upper Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Brass Plaque Vandals' to 'Right Arete' - the buttresses included in this area are Plaque Slab, Smooth Slabs, Diamond Wall, Seven Pillars, The Orange Walls & Thrice Claimed.
Lower Gaitkins includes the routes from 'Dog's Breakfast' to 'Thin Horizontal' - the buttresses included in this area are Monkey Buttress Bilberry Wall, Purple Slab, Winter Sun Amphitheatre, Furrowed Brow Area & Dream Buttress.

Approach notes

Approximately 50 minutes pleasant walk from the Three Shires Stone at the summit of Wrynose Pass. Head towards Red Tarn but before reaching it, cut left across the marshy valley and climb the flank of Cold Pike - contour around to reach the various buttresses which are somewhat spread out.

Guidebooks

A truly delightful spot, and well worth the walk-in from Wrynose which isn't very demanding physically but the buttresses can prove somewhat elusive as they face away, somewhat, from the direction of approach. After passing over/round the south ridge of Cold Pike continue towards Little Stand, roughly level, for about 1 km. Gradually some of the crags of Gaitkins (Upper) come into view. They will be above you and are distinguished by reddish rock. For Lower Gaitkins look for a flattish somewhat marshy area - the crags lie below this, probably out of sight till you reach them. The name Gaitkins is accurately located on the 1:25000 map and the flat area can be detected in the contour pattern. Lower Gaitkins is sheltered from east and north-east winds, making it a good winter venue on cold sunny northerly days.
Rog Wilko - 07/Oct/16
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Climbs at this crag

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