34m, 2 pitches.
The seemingly blank wall left of Crack of Dawn gives a superb, intricate route. Start as for Crack of Dawn.
1.) 26m (5c), using the quartz pocket, climb up and left on good holds to a shallow nut runner in the vague green groove (thin sling on a small spike). Traverse leftwards delicately into the corner of the wall to reach a flake (peg and nut). Pull up to an incut hold (skyhook), then move right to gain a tiny shallow groove; a fingery traverse left leads to a good hold. Pull up onto the large shelf, and a flake belay below the upper rounded pillar.
2.) 12m (5b), climb the thin crack line directly up the nose and over a bulge, then continue to the top.
1.) 26m (5c), using the quartz pocket, climb up and left on good holds to a shallow nut runner in the vague green groove (thin sling on a small spike). Traverse leftwards delicately into the corner of the wall to reach a flake (peg and nut). Pull up to an incut hold (skyhook), then move right to gain a tiny shallow groove; a fingery traverse left leads to a good hold. Pull up onto the large shelf, and a flake belay below the upper rounded pillar.
2.) 12m (5b), climb the thin crack line directly up the nose and over a bulge, then continue to the top.
A.Phizacklea and A. Rowell 26/Aug/1993.
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Route of Interest
The Grip Trip
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Raven Crag (Langdale))