A nice varied route - steep, satisfying, well protected and on excellent rock. The route sees plenty of action. There has been plenty of discussion about the star rating of this climb - you will have to do it so you can join in!
1) N5, 40m. Start up a crack with a tree in it and climb straight through a small overhang, then up the arete on the right using a finger-crack. Belay on a ledge just below the Gandalf overhang. Many teams struggle up the grassy groove round to the right - this IS NOT the route, so get back on the proper line now!
2) N6-, 25m. Climb the right-hand crack directly through the Gandalf overhang, then continue up the vertical jamming crack in the steep headwall above to a tiny stance.
3) N6-, 35m. Continue up finger-cracks in orange rock keeping just right of the Eagle's Nest belay on Gandalf. Finish up a groove and hand-crack right of Gandalf's final section. © Rockfax
FA. (P1) T Enevold, T Seines 1993, (The main crack of P2) S & H.
ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes , Lofoten 2021
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