Rockfax Description
The original route of the face. A fine long and adventurous expedition forcing its way up the left-hand side of the face. Start at a prominent pillar that leads towards a chimney formed by a large flake and a groove to its right. The only route here that sees much action.
1) N6, 50m. Climb the pillar and then the chimney above before moving right and climbing the crack to a stance. Belay (large cam) below the continuation crack.
2) N5, 10m. Climb the crack then move left to a tree belay on the big ledge system. Move the belay rightwards to another tree.
3) N7-, 25m. Follow the groove left then straight up (3 pegs) to a small ledge. Undercut right and belay on cams above a flake.
4) N6+, 45m. Head up the curving orange groove, then continue direct (passing to the left of an abseil station) up the groove to a stance by the Big Roof.
5) N7, 20m. Traverse right then make hard moves up the overhanging crack (big cams) before continuing more easily to a small stance. A spectacular and exposed pitch.
6) N3, 15m. Straightforward slab climbing leads to a tree at the top of the crag. © Rockfax

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