Altitude 129m a.s.l
The James duo on Negué Gorrak, 8a at Gandía, Costa Blanca © Simon Richardson
Sitting above a broad orange-filled valley, the red and grey terraced walls of Gandía offer many fine climbs. The grade range is good and, although it isn't great for people leading below 6a, there are enough easier routes dotted around the crag to give a day's worth. In the sixes and sevens the crag excels, with many great routes on pocketed walls and knobbly tufas. The easier climbs are mostly on grey walls, featuring fingery climbing of a good quality. The harder routes are often superb.
The crag faces south, catches all the sun going and is sheltered, it can be hot here even in the middle of winter. The steeper areas suffer from seepage after rain when many of the tufa climbs become impossible. If things haven't started to seep you should find something dry, though it may be pretty tough. El Bovedón stays dry in the rain but the routes are hard.
Drive north on the toll AP-7 to junction 61 - Oliva. Exit here and turn left towards Gandía. Drive through Bellreguard (slow) to a roundabout and take the second exit signed to Valencia. Once on the bypass take the 'Barx' exit which is after the first tunnel and before the second. Turn left under the N332 and the motorway. When you can see the crag ahead on your right, branch right, signed 'Cami de Tomba', and park below the crag. For those with less time and more cash it is faster to drive to the next junction on the motorway then head back south to the roundabout on the ring road. The current access route crosses the dry river bed up-stream from the parking.
El Bovedón - Drive to Gandía. Continue past the turning for the main crag for 900m then turn left at the roundabout (not signed but once on the road you see signs for 'Bar Carril'). Drive on for another 900m and turn left again. Drive down here for about 450m to the second turning on the left (which is a surfaced road just past a large green gate with "Private" signs). Do not take this but park sensibly about 100-200m further on. Walk back to the private road, and follow it, past the chain across the road and continue to the end of the road and follow the path across a slope to the crag.
A new approach path appears to have has been created for access to Gandia. Presumably as a result of the recent closure. It starts at the first lay by on the right (Just before the ford). If the river is running you may get wet! From the lay-by follow the path down and right to cross the riverbed. Two cairns currently mark the exit on the far side. The path then weaves its way up the wooded slope to arrive at Sector Fundico.
Access temporary restricted at Marxuquera only due to landowner issues: https://www.thecrag.com/discussion/6735629370/prohibicin-temporal--temporary-climbing-ban
Access for Bovedos is now the same for Bovedon/Bovedin but keep walking along, the crag has a sign post after Bovedon cave to show the two paths to reach other sectors.
|most of the new climbs listed are at Bovedos. Approach instructions: If coming from Gandia crag drive past the last Bovedon junction that takes you to Bovedon parking in the villas. Continue on the Cami Meravelles Cova Negra to an obvious parking on left with space for around 10 cars. Park up. continue walking to a gated track on left, if gate closed climb wall. Walk up track, staying on left one until a dry valley to the right of a sign about cave paintings. Walk up valley to crag (20 min approach). Most route names are on the rock.
hms - 16/Mar/15
|A point to note: El Bovedon faces south, not east as the guide suggests. This is clearly apparent as you can't see the sea from the cave! That means it's much hotter than the guide might leave you to believe, with only the Abracadabra wall receiving shade all day, and the majority of the crag recieving full sun.
Great climbing to be had at both El Bovedon and the Gandia main crag!
Jon_Warner - 19/Oct/14
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