45m, 2 pitches.
A stunning route, with a wild first pitch and steep juggy crux on the second.
1. (23m) 4c Climb the obvious corner on the right of the face, under the main roof. Climb the crack to a roof, traverse right and up to a small ledge, then climb up and right to a larger ledge with a small holly tree. Belay here.
2.(22m) 5b Climb the obvious line to the break in the overhang, climb this and continue straight up to the top. Lots of cams are required for this climb.
1. (23m) 4c Climb the obvious corner on the right of the face, under the main roof. Climb the crack to a roof, traverse right and up to a small ledge, then climb up and right to a larger ledge with a small holly tree. Belay here.
2.(22m) 5b Climb the obvious line to the break in the overhang, climb this and continue straight up to the top. Lots of cams are required for this climb.
A. Forde, A. Devlin Apr/1986.
Ticklists
Ireland 3 Star HVS , Ireland 3 Star Multipitches
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Burno | 14 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Route should warrant E1 5b and not HVS 5b, your last pieces are below your feet in the horizontal break under the roof/overlap when you make the crux moves at the overlap while they are also likely to be somewhat extended to allow the rope to flow over the overlap smoothly, good fall distance here as I found out the hard way! Used to be an E1 but for some reason was downgraded, which is unjustified. First pitch is definitely 5a also! Brilliant route however. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Route should warrant E1 5b and not HVS 5b, your last pieces are below your feet in the horizontal break under the roof/overlap when you make the crux moves at the overlap while they are also likely to be somewhat extended to allow the rope to flow over the overlap smoothly, good fall distance here as I found out the hard way! Used to be an E1 but for some reason was downgraded, which is unjustified. First pitch is definitely 5a also! Brilliant route however. |
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