UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Starting in the same place as Echos go left to a big pinch, use this to gain a juggy rail and from here the smiling feature. Awkward moves gain the top straight above. Could be 8a.

Tim Blake 07/Feb/2023.

Ticklists

NW Hard problems in the mountains

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Voting
High f8B
Mid f8B
Low f8B
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 4
Route of Interest
Honour Among Thieves

Grade: f8A+ ***
(Craig Las)

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