UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Jack Pearce.

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Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
Route of Interest
Randy Savage

Grade: f7B+ ***
(Pont Gyfyng, Cwm Pennant)

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