UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

50m, 2 pitches. The climb is the overhanging corner/groove left of Synthetic Life and is two pitches, but the first pitch is, THE pitch that remains dry in wet weather, although the fingerlock crack at the start does suffer from seepage and will be best after a dry period. The main pitch is sustained, technical, varied, and well protected apart from a bit of a run-out in the middle section, which raises the grade from E5 to E6. Take a good selection of wallnuts, half-nuts, off-sets, microcams and cams (up to a gold Dragon). The second pitch is a clean, 5a slab that was bolted, so people can climb out, much more enjoyable than pulling out on a fixed rope.

The approach is from a Silver Birch near the top of the scree that can be used as an anchor to carefully walk down the scree to another birch tree at the top of the slab. Abseil down the slab from the tree to a good ledge (double bolt anchor). Either fix an abseil rope from the anchor or rig it, so you can pull your ropes. A forty-metre abseil reaches a good ledge beneath the climb. A fixed belay is in place, so, if needed, a short abseil can be made into the base of the quarry where a scramble on the left of the slabs (ropes sometimes in place) to a tree, or a crawl through the tunnel system (right) leading to another tunnel and a scramble from Filmset Quarry, will provide escape.

Pitch 1. 35m
Climb easily from the belay until beneath an overhanging corner with a fine looking fingerlock crack. Climb to the top of the crack (great gear and with imagination, good rests). Exiting the crack, and entering the wide, bottomless chimney is the crux. At the top of the chimney, place bomber gear before entering left into the slabby groove. At the top of the groove, a large ledge is reached (small, not brilliant cams, and a small wire are just enough to steady the nerve). A thought-provoking move left from the ledge leads to steady climbing and good gear. After a few more moves up, a step back right into the top of the corner, before moving right across the overhanging wall, leads to an exit onto the belay ledge.

Pitch 2. 15m
Climb the slab, 5a. Belay from the tree at the top of the slab.

Nick Bullock, Mick Lovatt 22/Apr/2021.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Nick Bullock 25 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: After seconding Ian on the main pitch, (who on-sighted it in fine style) I've come to the conclusion I was possibly a bit early season arms, combined with OMOGS (Old Man's Overgrading Syndrome) when I suggested E6 6b, it's possibly closer to E5 6a/b...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After seconding Ian on the main pitch, (who on-sighted it in fine style) I've come to the conclusion I was possibly a bit early season arms, combined with OMOGS (Old Man's Overgrading Syndrome) when I suggested E6 6b, it's possibly closer to E5 6a/b...

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Angular Momentum

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Cae Mabon)

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