UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

The Highball arete/groove to the right of Surfing with the Alien is very good. The stand starts from a good sidepull. A sit start is also possible, however it doesn't add any difficult moves and is a bit hemmed in. Prepare for a scary mantel!

Benjamin Jones-Ellis Sit-Osian Prry 06/Mar/2022.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

2 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
One Flew Over The Cuckoo's Nest

Grade: f7A ***
(Creigiau'r Garth)

Loading Notifications...