Climbs 27
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 267m a.s.l
Faces S

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Sam disappears in a blur of action. © Dan Arkle

Crag features

A small bouldering area tucked away in the woods near Gidleigh. Problems are scattered around the hillside and are of varying quality with some excellent climbs amongst these. The grades range from V0 to V8+ with a nice selection of styles covered. The better problems are Le Coq V2, Fist full of slopers V2, Lip Trip V3, The Skinny Man V4 and the much harder Dark Devotion V8+. The area is much more open these days and it is much easier to get around. There are more quality boulders and problems dotted around these woods than documented in the new Dartmoor guide. A nice venue for a few problems and lots of exploration! Oh and don't forget the JUMP (covered by a large tree at present)! Problems have the relevant number from the new Dartmoor guide next to them in the description and are listed as you approach them. i.e. right to left if you were looking up the hill towards the boulders.

Approach notes

From the A30 turn off at Widdon Down then follow signs towards Moretonhampstead. Along this road is a turning on the right for Gidleigh follow this through Gidleigh to an obvious large layby and gate at the entrance to the woods which is on this road! Please do not obstruct the driveway to the woods as 24hr access if required; further parking is available along the lane by the village hall just down the road.

Access: Please note that the woods are privately owned and there is no specific agreement in place permitting climbing. Operate the 'leave no trace' policy and stick to foot paths where possible. Brush off chalk and tick marks and be mindful of ground erosion when placing and moving pads.

Does anyone regularly climb here. I live ten minutes away and only really found them recently. I was wondering if they'd even been 'discovered'. The army use the area for training and a lot of the waste and fire spots are from that. I was looking at some problems that might benefit from some gentle cleaning but don't want to clean holds on someone's sacred spot.
Craggers87 - 23/Nov/14
Lots of good bouldering here. Is there anywhere I can find a topo's/descriptions of the problems. Can't seem to find any.
Tom Seccombe - 30/Jan/13
the woods have seen a lot of traffic from some wild camping bivvy types who have left large amounts of rubbish lying around, also there have been many randomly placed campfires (some at the base of at least four problems causing some rock to shatter and break off) If you venture into the woods, just watch your step and go easy
mca - 28/Jun/10
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