UKC

35m. Ten metres below the start of Gabbro, a grassy ramp slants up rightwards below the buttress - this is at the level of the big chockstone in the scree gully. Scramble up this for 15 metres to a leveling below a short slab guarded by a tiny juniper.

(4c) Climb the slab and continue to a small cave. Step right and pull up the steep rib on shelving holds to gain and follow a fine slab. Continue up easier ribs to the top.

BJ Clarke 30/May/2005.

Ticklists

FRCC Borrowdale guide 2016 graded list

Feedback

User Date Notes
dandotch 21 Aug Show βeta
βeta: As previously said, there's lots of loose blocks. Took the right hand 4c route and the slab is pretty stable (and committing!). A lot of cracks where you would place gear were loose. It looks like the chunk at the cave has given out fairly recently, I'd still be careful of more loose rock though. Don't know about the 4b route but the 4c is climbable but limited for gear. Be careful. If you're torn between this and another route, I'd recommend the other one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As previously said, there's lots of loose blocks. Took the right hand 4c route and the slab is pretty stable (and committing!). A lot of cracks where you would place gear were loose. It looks like the chunk at the cave has given out fairly recently, I'd still be careful of more loose rock though. Don't know about the 4b route but the 4c is climbable but limited for gear. Be careful. If you're torn between this and another route, I'd recommend the other one.
Johnhi 7 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rock under the loose block is also mobile, at least two microwaves ready to go.
Show beta
βeta: Rock under the loose block is also mobile, at least two microwaves ready to go.
CathS 4 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Left hand 4b line through the cave as described in the FRCC guidebook is no longer safe to climb. The block step up to the slab sheared in half as my climbing partner stood on it while leading the route (2nd Sept 2023). The large microwave-sized block that then fell down the crag nearly decapitated me as belaying. What remains of the block is now extremely unstable, with further loose rock around it. There will be further rockfall if it is touched!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left hand 4b line through the cave as described in the FRCC guidebook is no longer safe to climb. The block step up to the slab sheared in half as my climbing partner stood on it while leading the route (2nd Sept 2023). The large microwave-sized block that then fell down the crag nearly decapitated me as belaying. What remains of the block is now extremely unstable, with further loose rock around it. There will be further rockfall if it is touched!

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Votes cast 4
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
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Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
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Route of Interest
Direct Route

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Castle Rock of Triermain)

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