Gilwern is an old limestone quarry working, set high up on the edge of moorland overlooking the Black Mountains to the north.
NB Gilwern Lower - major rockfall mid way along crag affects a number of routes/Mons council currently assessing impact on Pwlldu Rd and cliff stability/Pwll Du rd closed to foot/cycle/cars. approach from Gilwern mast or walk up station rd.
The quarries are not very high but have some good little patches that are well bolted and very popular. The grades span the 5s and 6s, the highlight being the lines on Gilwern Main Wall's covering of flowstone and the compact technicalities on offer at Gilwern East.Included in the Rockfax South Wales Sport guide. Since 2020 a new Guide to THE GILWERN AREA has included the extensions to Gilwern Lower and Tyla quarries along with Gilwern-In-The-Woods, Topdeckio and Secret Gallery. The quarries are both exposed to wind and rain, but are good spots in warm weather, having pleasant bases and expansive outlooks over the Usk valley and the Black Mountains.
Gilwern Main 17/07/21 - Loose hangers - Jug Fest - first hanger and one of the lower off hangers has 'finger loose' hangers. If you have a spanner, might be fine
Gilwern Main 08/06/21 - Loose Bolt - Nose Job or other route nearby Flow job Please be aware of a report of a loose glue in staple bolt, most likely on Nose Job but somewhere in this area where there's glue ins Please pre inspect these routes and check the bolts/fixed gear before attempting the routes in this area for your safety
Gilwern Lower 01/06/19 update - Its Been GoodYear 6b+ - reported 1 metre square loose block in the upper part of this route is dangerous/best avoided. Agreeed by a 3rd party climber. Next 02/06/19 update Brian BPM Has checked and cleaned this loose flake/block(?). To reach the satisfactory anchor across the rock scar is awkward and 6c/6c+ (possible new grade for the route ?). Bolting is out of line and bolts should be checked with a visual check for the rock scar which will probably be loose. Be Cautious in and around this route and inspect it fully to ensure your safety.
21/07/2020 - J Jones stated - theres a large loose block near Scorpion at Gilwern East. It may be on that route or either side. So caution around these routes.
08/07/23 - Bird of prey nesting immediately to the left of Ivor biggun, looks like a Peregrine Falcon at a glance and there are chicks in the nest as of this morning, potentially need to add seasonal restrictions to Gilwern West?