7 pitches. Regular route, Pitch 1: Start on easy slabs left of an obvious dihedral with a crack in the back. Traverse to the crack, where the fun begins. Continuous, well protected 5.7 to 5.8 (5.10a in most recent guidebook, on consensus that the original 5.7 grade was 'a colossal sandbag') climbing takes you straight up to a stance with slings. There are a couple of short layback problems on this pitch, and lots of jamming. 40m, 5.10a
Pitch 2: Follow crack directly up from belay. Difficulty eases quickly. Tend right toward a notch in the ridgeline. Round this to an awkward stance on a chockstone in a chimney. [slings for a 50m rap to the west]. 40m, 5.7
Pitch 3: Head up and right, initially on rounded holds and ledges. Gain the crack system of your choice; those further right around the corner are a bit easier. Belay on a large ledge on the south face. 35m., 5.7.
Pitch 4: Climb the short clean crack in the corner from the left side of the belay ledge. Head up easier ground towards another short perfect crack to the right. easy terraces lead to a belay at the base of steeper rock. 5.6, 40m.
Pitch 5: Climb a crack system very close to the ridgeline. Spectacular positions and consistent, excellent climbing make this one of the finest 5.6 pitches on the continent. 50m.
Pitch 6: The roof pitch. Looming 25m. above is the ceiling that provides the crux of the route.
Moderate [5.6] cracks lead to it, providing excellent protection. Use small holds on the face to turn the ceiling on the the left. Just over the roof are big positive edges for the hands; the challenge is getting to them. Belay just above the roof if you can arrange an anchor - rope drag from here to the next good belay stance at a series of ledges 10m. further on can be a serious problem.
Pitch 7: Climb the ridgeline via right-leaning cracks. Belay when you reach markedly easier ground. Another excellent pitch, 5.6, 40m.
Another short [10m] wall with good cracks lies above, which you might choose to belay [5.2]. Above it is ~200m. of 3rd class ridgeline to the south summit. Scramble easily down to the notch, then gain the trail to the true summit.

Descent is via the East Ridge. Look for cairns leading you off the summit block to a convoluted route down an initially steep wall [4th] to easier scrambling below. Continue past several gullies until you find one with a large, free standing pillar at the top. You can traverse back to the base of the route from the bottom of the gully, or head down to intersect the trail. This is the standard non-technical route up Gimli.


Fred Beckey's 100 Favourite North American Climbs


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High 5.10b
Mid 5.10b
Low 5.10b
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Genelle towers traverse

Grade: 5.10a ***
(Genelle towers)

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