UKC

Rockfax Description
One of the great Welsh mountain HVSs and a route finding masterpiece. The line takes the clean elongated rib that soars up the crag on its most continuous section of rock. The climbing and the rock are both good but the route needs a long dry spell to come into condition.
1) 5a, 24m. Use a jammed block to gain a niche and exit this via some hard moves up a crack to a sloping ledge above. Go left into a groove and climb it and grassy ledges above to a belay on a very large ledge.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb slabby rock to a spike on the arete under an overhang. Move right around the arete and climb a crack until the arete can be accessed again at a ledge below a bulge. Pull over the bulge and climb up a groove to a belay at a block.
3) 4b, 15m. Go left and up the arete to the finishing ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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User Date Notes
pancakeandchips 19 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Added some nuts to both abseil stations and replaced the tat. 19/09/2020
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Added some nuts to both abseil stations and replaced the tat. 19/09/2020
The9inger 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: For those who chose to clip a rusty peg on the way out of the niche, It crumbled beneath my fingers and its remains are best avoided
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For those who chose to clip a rusty peg on the way out of the niche, It crumbled beneath my fingers and its remains are best avoided
nomermaid39 9 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The original route (see 1973 Central Wales guide} took the OH on pitch 2 (as described for Voie Suisse) then moved back right. Slightly harder but much better than ducking round the corner from the spike.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The original route (see 1973 Central Wales guide} took the OH on pitch 2 (as described for Voie Suisse) then moved back right. Slightly harder but much better than ducking round the corner from the spike.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Onsighted
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