One of the great Welsh mountain HVSs and a route finding masterpiece. The line takes the clean elongated rib that soars up the crag on its most continuous section of rock. The climbing and the rock are both good but the route needs a long dry spell to come into condition.
1) 5a, 24m. Use a jammed block to gain a niche and exit this via some hard moves up a crack to a sloping ledge above. Go left into a groove and climb it and grassy ledges above to a belay on a very large ledge.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb slabby rock to a spike on the arete under an overhang. Move right around the arete and climb a crack until the arete can be accessed again at a ledge below a bulge. Pull over the bulge and climb up a groove to a belay at a block.
3) 4b, 15m. Go left and up the arete to the finishing ledge. © Rockfax
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