275m, 9 pitches.
Starts on a pinkish slab high up to the left of the main cliff. A fine clean route with good situations.
1. 33m Climb the slab near its left edge to a stance just below the final steepening.
2. 33m VD Move around an awkward corner to the right and climb straight up the nose on small holds to easier ground.
3. 24m The ridge is easy for 12m then steepens and a traverse is made to a grass ledge with flake belay.
4. 30m The ridge steepens towards the First Step but holds become more plentiful. Climb over some flakes bearing right and up a shallow scoop to a stance.
5. 15m Traverse below the wall into the recess on the nose and climb the chimney in the corner to a ledge. 5a. 15m Zyta Variation - Climb the slanting crack on the left wall of the recess.
6. 15m Move left along the ledge and up a chimney to easy ground.
7. 90m Scramble along the level part of the ridge to a small col, then go up easy slabs to the foot of the second step.
8. 18m Traverse left until the wall is low enough to be climbed and go right up to the foot of a shallow groove.
9. 18m Climb the groove to the top of the Second Step.Above this about 100m of easy scrambling up the Third Step leads to the top of the crag.
See also 'Classic Routes' http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1977
1. 33m Climb the slab near its left edge to a stance just below the final steepening.
2. 33m VD Move around an awkward corner to the right and climb straight up the nose on small holds to easier ground.
3. 24m The ridge is easy for 12m then steepens and a traverse is made to a grass ledge with flake belay.
4. 30m The ridge steepens towards the First Step but holds become more plentiful. Climb over some flakes bearing right and up a shallow scoop to a stance.
5. 15m Traverse below the wall into the recess on the nose and climb the chimney in the corner to a ledge. 5a. 15m Zyta Variation - Climb the slanting crack on the left wall of the recess.
6. 15m Move left along the ledge and up a chimney to easy ground.
7. 90m Scramble along the level part of the ridge to a small col, then go up easy slabs to the foot of the second step.
8. 18m Traverse left until the wall is low enough to be climbed and go right up to the foot of a shallow groove.
9. 18m Climb the groove to the top of the Second Step.Above this about 100m of easy scrambling up the Third Step leads to the top of the crag.
See also 'Classic Routes' http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1977
Alberry and Crofton, (CUMC), 1933. Zyta variation; Andre Kopczinski, 18.3.1951.
Ticklists
Ireland 3 Star D-HS , The Big Easys , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , Ireland 3 Star Multipitches , UGMC - Must do Climbs , Weird Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Seán Fortune | 8 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Some Approach beta to avoid the worst of the bog (see images for line): Aim slightly SW from the sheepfold through a bit of rocky grass to end up where a stream joins in just West of the west most of the two incut bends. Cross somewhere around here (easy enough to chuck in a few stepping stones if needed) and head south a few metres to the next bend. Pick up a faint track here that leads onto the higher ground, following the edge of the re-entrant. Cross a short bit of boggy ground SW where this runs out to pick up more rocky ground at the edge of another re entrant, and follow this up till you can contour right on (mostly!) better ground and head up to the base of the ridge. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Some Approach beta to avoid the worst of the bog (see images for line): Aim slightly SW from the sheepfold through a bit of rocky grass to end up where a stream joins in just West of the west most of the two incut bends. Cross somewhere around here (easy enough to chuck in a few stepping stones if needed) and head south a few metres to the next bend. Pick up a faint track here that leads onto the higher ground, following the edge of the re-entrant. Cross a short bit of boggy ground SW where this runs out to pick up more rocky ground at the edge of another re entrant, and follow this up till you can contour right on (mostly!) better ground and head up to the base of the ridge. |
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| arose | 23 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: First slab would be terrifying in the wet and not made much better by using a rope I would think as there’s no cracks for gear. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: First slab would be terrifying in the wet and not made much better by using a rope I would think as there’s no cracks for gear. |
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| CallumY3 | 4 Apr, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Asked the owner if we could park near their property but they declined, closest alternative is here which adds a bit to the walk in: https://maps.app.goo.gl/fKEtbQ6upLykoJbL9 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Asked the owner if we could park near their property but they declined, closest alternative is here which adds a bit to the walk in: https://maps.app.goo.gl/fKEtbQ6upLykoJbL9 |
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| M Hudson | 11 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Scorching day, long walk-in from the south through forestry. Fabulous line, amazing positions. About 40 mins, fuelled by mint toffees. Continued onto Benn Corr, meeting pals there, and then down via Derryclare in a big loop. Recommend a lochan swim below that summit | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Scorching day, long walk-in from the south through forestry. Fabulous line, amazing positions. About 40 mins, fuelled by mint toffees. Continued onto Benn Corr, meeting pals there, and then down via Derryclare in a big loop. Recommend a lochan swim below that summit |
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