Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Clean, delicate, bold and exposed. © Fiend
A collection of south-facing schist crags on the northern side of the glen offering good climbing in a sunny location, with a short but steep approach and worthy of much more attention than they receive. The lower and middle crags mainly offer lower and mid grade routes, whilst the upper crags are of most interest to E grade leaders.
Park at the big 'Honeymoon Bridge' layby at GR258043 on the A83 going from arrochar up towards the rest and be thankful. Walk up the old road (parallel to the A83) until a rough path leads off right past some small walls on the left to the Middle Crag. The Upper crag is a further 5 minutes walk above the middle crag.
|climbed these crags as fa with jim dival in the 80s very fond momories of long summer nights and the mighty midge,
last climb i did was fear on i think the middle crag to old to climb now
Ray Cluer - 20/Mar/06
|Few minutes walk from the Car Park, Bit boggy under foot.
First Tier is very slabby, not a lot of pro, but some simple easy bouldering up to 5c ish
Second Tier, Nice Layback crack STUDENTS ROUTE S 4a, easy to get first bit of Pro in if your tall. To the left we also did a 5a crack, not Adj grade to it tho?? 3 x 5a moves stacked, nice short problem/route with lots of gear, which can be hard to place due to the moves.
Didnt make it up to the Third Tiar.
Belay Stakes on 2nd tier are a long way from the crag edge, with rope stretch a potential problem, suggest taking a length of Static rope to set up the belays. We used 50m of Dynamic to set up a 2 point anchor and the remainder only just touched down for the second. 30m of Static should be enough.
Lancs Lad - 05/Jul/05
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