Rockfax Description
45m. Squeezed up the hanging groove between No Place for a Wendy and The Great Crack but offering great climbing. Start below No Place for a Wendy below a short crack.
1. 20m 5a Climb the crack for 3m, then move left to a sloping ledge. Traverse a couple of moves left to a corner-crack which leads up to beneath the steep upper wall (peg belay).
2. 25m 6a Climb the impending wall and go over a small overhang into a smooth groove (crux). Climb the overhanging groove leftwards to reach The Great Crack and finish up this.
FA G.Muhlemann, S.M.Richardson, 20 Jul 1985 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The hanging groove high up.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mikegg | 27 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think the line in the topos of the SMC and Garry Latter's guide are incorrect for the first pitch. The topos show the route going over the obvious roof at about 6 meters. I think the original route traverses along the sloping ledge above this roof. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I think the line in the topos of the SMC and Garry Latter's guide are incorrect for the first pitch. The topos show the route going over the obvious roof at about 6 meters. I think the original route traverses along the sloping ledge above this roof. |
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Guidebooks for Glen Lednock, Balnacoul Castle
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Rat Race
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Dunkeld, Cave Crag)