Climbs 25
Rocktype Psammite
Altitude 86m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Glen Shian topo © Fiend

Crag features

A small but beautiful steep slab of sheer flaky psammite. Made internationally famous with Dave MacLeod's E10, Die By The Drop, but general crag/route information was previously very elusive.

A combination of technically exacting climbing and an open, sunny, quick-drying location make it well worth a visit for the extreme leader.

Grades have been tweaked in accordance with similar Scottish slab routes (Land Ahoy, Edgehog, Diode, Triode, Risque Grapefruit, Wall Of Flame, White Meter, Light Brigade, Ceud Mile Failte, Pettifar's Wall, Tango On The Black, etc).


Approach notes

Turn left of the A830 westbound at the Lochailort Hotel. After 1/3 mile turn left again, signed Glen Shian. Follow this track for 1/4 mile and park by a BT exchange on the right, just before a bridge. Walk along the track by the river, through an estate past various buildings, curving right at a long tin-roofed shed. Just after this turn left and pass a small fortified cemetery, then just after this cross the bridge on the left. Cut diagonally right through the obligatory bogs to reach the slab up right on the skyline. 20 mins.

A few comments about grades and stars: MIDGEARAMADRAMA - estimated * due to decent line. ... GEMINI - up to 5c due to tricky techy crux, ** due to consistently good climbing. ... INTO THE LIGHT - down to E2 now the heather is trimmed because crux is shortlived and has perfect cams by your nose, only * due to general awkwardness. ... DIE BY THE DROP - estimated ** as line is not as good as Apophenia and has a shaky death flake lower down. ... APOPHENIA - down to E7 6c following C. Woodburn's repeat, estimated *** as great line and seems great rock. ... FRUSTRATION - down to E4 5c as low crux is slightly easier than Gemini and much easier than CT and MW, and has a good skyhook next to it, upper climbing is steady 5b/c on good holds with easy rescue and 2nd good skyhook possible, only *** because UKC doesn't cater for ****! ... THE REBELLION, estimated at ** as not quite as natural a line as F but still a great bit of rock. ... CRUCIAL TIMES - upgraded to E5 6a due to aborted onsight repeated attempt which ripped several RPs just resting on them, definitely much harder than F, estimated ** as just about safe with good low flake runners and obviously intense climbing. ... FLAKE BEAG - estimated * as a good line and has now been cleaned of much heather. ... SKYFALL - estimated * as not as good a line as adjacent routes but clearly good climbing. ... MILKY WAY - stays at E3 as although crux is safe it's pretty hard and the climbing to it is more sustained than ITL, ** as a good line with consistently good climbing for it's size.
Fiend - 17/Jul/14
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