65m, 2 pitches.
The line of the summer route Square Chimney. Start in a small bay up and left of the lunch stone on the main ledge running along the base of the crag.
P1 30m: III 4. Climb the vertical wood rush to an overhanging rock capping the upper bay. Pass this on the left side (large silver cam useful for protection) and carry on up easy snow slopes to a good belay on large wires down and right of the main chimney crack.
P2 35m: VI 6. Climb the large slot chimney. Potentially easier without a rucksack. Potentially easier with a very large rucksack. The summer route breaks this pitch down into two short pitches, climbing the crack in the left hand wall at the top. Continue in the main chimney line up and right to a good in-situ belay where a 60m ab reaches the starting ledges.
P1 30m: III 4. Climb the vertical wood rush to an overhanging rock capping the upper bay. Pass this on the left side (large silver cam useful for protection) and carry on up easy snow slopes to a good belay on large wires down and right of the main chimney crack.
P2 35m: VI 6. Climb the large slot chimney. Potentially easier without a rucksack. Potentially easier with a very large rucksack. The summer route breaks this pitch down into two short pitches, climbing the crack in the left hand wall at the top. Continue in the main chimney line up and right to a good in-situ belay where a 60m ab reaches the starting ledges.
Luca Celano & Andy Finney 20/Nov/2024.
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Route of Interest
Adam Rib
Grade: VI 7 ***
(Craig Cwm Du)