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Rockfax Description
The original hard free climb on the right side of Great Buttress is a major undertaking with both technical and serious passages. Start by scrambling to a ledge about 8m up on the right of the buttress.
1) 5c, 28m. From the tree on the left of the ledge go up left and then right to a groove with difficulty. Follow the fingery groove to a bulge and move over it on to the wall above. Climb rightwards to a stance and belay.
2) 5c, 25m. A bold pitch. Head up leftwards and then make a thin traverse left to reach a conspicuous downward-pointing spike on the edge of the wall. Move left around the edge and up a groove to a wall that is climbed on good finger-holds to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Was E3, but is now missing a peg, making this a true heart stopper.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives', Nuts of Legends

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User Date Notes
pjor 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route that needs more traffic. Doesn't look like it's had an ascent for a while.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route that needs more traffic. Doesn't look like it's had an ascent for a while.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 26
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Fallen Angel

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Pavey Ark)