The original hard free climb on the right side of Great Buttress is a major undertaking with both technical and serious passages. Start by scrambling to a ledge about 8m up on the right of the buttress.
1) 5c, 28m. From the tree on the left of the ledge go up left and then right to a groove with difficulty. Follow the fingery groove to a bulge and move over it on to the wall above. Climb rightwards to a stance and belay.
2) 5c, 25m. A bold pitch. Head up leftwards and then make a thin traverse left to reach a conspicuous downward-pointing spike on the edge of the wall. Move left around the edge and up a groove to a wall that is climbed on good finger-holds to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Was E3, but is now missing a peg, making this a true heart stopper.
Extreme Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives', Nuts of Legends
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