A phenomenal and historically significant climb that has become harder over the years due to hold loss. The line here probably includes sections of the original, the direct version and Trojan Horse, E6 6b (an eliminate based on the route). Follow Athanor to above the steep crack, then traverse along and up onto a rampline that is climbed to below overhangs (old decaying gear here). Move up and then left. Continue up past a peg until a series of hard moves left reaches a good finger-crack. Move left again to a short wall that ends below further overhangs. Head up past the overhangs to easier-angled ground and finish up the cleanest line on the left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The name speaks for itself. Still possible without the undercut but a long reach is needed to clip a peg on the Direct Variation. Without the peg it's a bold E6.
P Livesey 19/Apr/1974.
Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett
Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain
The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist
100 or so good E6s - aye Caff
Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics
Ultimate E5 ticklist
Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers
Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives'
Nuts of Legends
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Grade: E6 6b ***
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