400m, 11 pitches.
Long, very cool sport route to the top of Goat Wall. Great location, generous bolting, very popular and a fun day out. Descend either by tedious abseiling, possible with a single 60m rope (keep an eye out for intermediate anchors) or by a car shuttle to the bumpy forest road at the top.
Although there are 5.9 cruxes on this climb, they are all very short and very well-protected. Overall, the route is extremely generous in its bolting.
Pitch 1: Begin at a small fir tree. Head up easy 5th-class ledges to a large ledge with a bolted anchor next to a large fir. (5.4)
Pitch 2: Steep face to an anchor. (5.8)
Shift the belay to below a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch 3: Up the dihedral. You will pass a rappel anchor. Continue up to the anchor on the ledge with the large blocks. (5.7)
Pitch 4: Climb the face above through three steep cruxes. Juggy pockets just where you want them keep the grade moderate. End in the Notch. (5.9-)
Pitch 5: Climb the straight-forward face above. Belay at a tree. (5.7)
Shift the belay to the large fir by the wall. The top of the gully is here. It is my understanding that you can descend the gully from here. It might be an unpleasant "pinball" experience down the scree. Beware loose rock from above.
Pitch 6: Climb a nicely exposed face with a slight left-to-right traverse. (5.8)
Pitch 7: This pitch begins with a bouldery crux off the ledge. There are a couple more bouldery moves on this fun pitch. (5.9-)
Shift the belay again to below the juggy slab. There is a large fir tree here showing scars from the frequent rockfall at this spot. Beware, especially if there are parties above you here.
Pitch 8: Climb the fun juggy slab to a semi-hanging anchor. (5.8)
Pitch 9: This pitch follows a short, exposed traverse to the right. (5.4)
Pitch 10: Traverse back to the left. You will reach a 2-bolt anchor. It might be preferable to continue up to the beginning of the next pitch and belay off of the first bolt. If you opt to belay off of the 2-bolt anchor, be sure to shift your belay before starting Pitch 11. (Easy 5th-, 4th-, and 3rd class)
Pitch 11: The money pitch. Begin by ascending a short leaning pillar. Stem over to the main wall, and thrutch up a somewhat awkward set of features. Beyond, the awkwardness eases, but the difficulty remains consistent. (5.9)
Although there are 5.9 cruxes on this climb, they are all very short and very well-protected. Overall, the route is extremely generous in its bolting.
Pitch 1: Begin at a small fir tree. Head up easy 5th-class ledges to a large ledge with a bolted anchor next to a large fir. (5.4)
Pitch 2: Steep face to an anchor. (5.8)
Shift the belay to below a left-facing dihedral.
Pitch 3: Up the dihedral. You will pass a rappel anchor. Continue up to the anchor on the ledge with the large blocks. (5.7)
Pitch 4: Climb the face above through three steep cruxes. Juggy pockets just where you want them keep the grade moderate. End in the Notch. (5.9-)
Pitch 5: Climb the straight-forward face above. Belay at a tree. (5.7)
Shift the belay to the large fir by the wall. The top of the gully is here. It is my understanding that you can descend the gully from here. It might be an unpleasant "pinball" experience down the scree. Beware loose rock from above.
Pitch 6: Climb a nicely exposed face with a slight left-to-right traverse. (5.8)
Pitch 7: This pitch begins with a bouldery crux off the ledge. There are a couple more bouldery moves on this fun pitch. (5.9-)
Shift the belay again to below the juggy slab. There is a large fir tree here showing scars from the frequent rockfall at this spot. Beware, especially if there are parties above you here.
Pitch 8: Climb the fun juggy slab to a semi-hanging anchor. (5.8)
Pitch 9: This pitch follows a short, exposed traverse to the right. (5.4)
Pitch 10: Traverse back to the left. You will reach a 2-bolt anchor. It might be preferable to continue up to the beginning of the next pitch and belay off of the first bolt. If you opt to belay off of the 2-bolt anchor, be sure to shift your belay before starting Pitch 11. (Easy 5th-, 4th-, and 3rd class)
Pitch 11: The money pitch. Begin by ascending a short leaning pillar. Stem over to the main wall, and thrutch up a somewhat awkward set of features. Beyond, the awkwardness eases, but the difficulty remains consistent. (5.9)
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Route of Interest
Flyboys
Grade: 5.9 ***
(Goat Wall)