UKC

Climbs 91
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 4m a.s.l
Faces E

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Bridget Collier climbing Tombstone (3+) Godnor © Mark Glaister

Crag features

The connected cliffs of Godnor South and North are both congenial spots to climb, having plenty of low and mid-grade sport climbs in seaside surroundings. Godnor South is tidal and less developed than its northern neighbour and as a result far less frequented. Godnor North is a fine non-tidal crag and perfect for climbers looking to get plenty of mileage in on routes in the 4s, 5s and 6s, although at times it can get busy. There are a considerable number of trad lines at Godnor South that have seen no ascents in recent times and only brief details and approximate lines are recorded here. Only a couple of minutes walk away and passed on the approach is the Neddyfields crag that also has many similarly graded lines. Both the north and south cliffs get sun from first thing in the morning and this is often the best time to get the rock at its best.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for this crag lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park. From the limited parking spot, walk 200m down the coastpath to where a long, low bouldering wall appears on the right (2 mins from the road). The Neddyfields Main Cliff lies directly below the bouldering wall. Opposite the far end of the bouldering wall, use a good steep path which cuts back left (looking out) along the cliff base. At the bottom of the cliff, descend to the beach boulders then head right (looking out) for 150m along the boulder beach, past a large outfall pipe, to where the main crag of Godnor Far North starts. The boulders can be greasy and eventually they become tidal. At around 1 or 2 hours either side of low spring tides you can continue under the cliff (Godnor North) to quickly access a large tank-shaped boulder. The route Euphemism starts from the top of the tank-shaped boulder.

Access Advice

The cliff passed on the approach with a huge pipe running diagonally across it is banned, due to rare plants growing above it.

Rockfax Digital

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Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
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Climbs at this crag

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