Rockfax Description
A good, technical roof and wall problem that gives by far and away the hardest move (or two) at this end of the cliff. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Vaicaitis 20/Jul/1997.
Portland , Portland 7a/+ , Godnor North Sport Climbs , Sportland 2025
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Rig open Alban | 10 Aug |
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βeta: Hoping the juggy overhang flake will last bit longer, feels very tiny but noticeable hollow underfoot... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hoping the juggy overhang flake will last bit longer, feels very tiny but noticeable hollow underfoot... |
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chrishoran | 2024 |
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βeta: High right foot for start. Up to the big flake. Traverse left to pick up ledge, then hand Traverse to the big left and semi right hand. Build feet. Mantle to good crimp, then another crimp, then the big jug. Cruise up to the final problem. The secret is the high right crimp in the corner. Don't forget to use the apparent crimp as a good foot hold | ||
Show beta
βeta: High right foot for start. Up to the big flake. Traverse left to pick up ledge, then hand Traverse to the big left and semi right hand. Build feet. Mantle to good crimp, then another crimp, then the big jug. Cruise up to the final problem. The secret is the high right crimp in the corner. Don't forget to use the apparent crimp as a good foot hold |
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ZacMoss | 5 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Don't finish at the anchor for the 6b+, go left and do one last boulder problem to reach the anchor at the top of the cliff. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't finish at the anchor for the 6b+, go left and do one last boulder problem to reach the anchor at the top of the cliff. |
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Bouldering Ben | 17 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Finishes at chains not vertical staples | βeta? | |
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βeta: Finishes at chains not vertical staples |
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ChossChampion | 22 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Nice Portland runout to start, not too hard but quite beta intensive. Worked out the moves then came back for the send. When you smell the dead fish near the top, you know you're out of the woods. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice Portland runout to start, not too hard but quite beta intensive. Worked out the moves then came back for the send. When you smell the dead fish near the top, you know you're out of the woods. |
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kev c | 21 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: 1st go after putting draws in - amazing route ! | βeta? | |
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βeta: 1st go after putting draws in - amazing route ! |
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Climber_Bill | 18 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Nice moves over the roof, but certainly harder for the tall. However, I can't complain as this is not very often the case. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Nice moves over the roof, but certainly harder for the tall. However, I can't complain as this is not very often the case. |
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crispygts | 21 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: Nice moves over the crux, but what the hell happens at the top? do you go left to the high belay or finish at the double bolts in line with the rest of the route??? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Nice moves over the crux, but what the hell happens at the top? do you go left to the high belay or finish at the double bolts in line with the rest of the route??? |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Dancing Ledge)