UKC

13m.

Rockfax Description
A good, technical roof and wall problem that gives by far and away the hardest move (or two) at this end of the cliff. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Vaicaitis 20/Jul/1997.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+ , Godnor North Sport Climbs , Sportland 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rig open Alban 10 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Hoping the juggy overhang flake will last bit longer, feels very tiny but noticeable hollow underfoot...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hoping the juggy overhang flake will last bit longer, feels very tiny but noticeable hollow underfoot...
chrishoran 2024 Show βeta
βeta: High right foot for start. Up to the big flake. Traverse left to pick up ledge, then hand Traverse to the big left and semi right hand. Build feet. Mantle to good crimp, then another crimp, then the big jug. Cruise up to the final problem. The secret is the high right crimp in the corner. Don't forget to use the apparent crimp as a good foot hold
Show beta
βeta: High right foot for start. Up to the big flake. Traverse left to pick up ledge, then hand Traverse to the big left and semi right hand. Build feet. Mantle to good crimp, then another crimp, then the big jug. Cruise up to the final problem. The secret is the high right crimp in the corner. Don't forget to use the apparent crimp as a good foot hold
ZacMoss 5 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Don't finish at the anchor for the 6b+, go left and do one last boulder problem to reach the anchor at the top of the cliff.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't finish at the anchor for the 6b+, go left and do one last boulder problem to reach the anchor at the top of the cliff.
Bouldering Ben 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Finishes at chains not vertical staples
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Finishes at chains not vertical staples
ChossChampion 22 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nice Portland runout to start, not too hard but quite beta intensive. Worked out the moves then came back for the send. When you smell the dead fish near the top, you know you're out of the woods.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice Portland runout to start, not too hard but quite beta intensive. Worked out the moves then came back for the send. When you smell the dead fish near the top, you know you're out of the woods.
kev c 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 1st go after putting draws in - amazing route !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 1st go after putting draws in - amazing route !
Climber_Bill 18 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice moves over the roof, but certainly harder for the tall. However, I can't complain as this is not very often the case.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice moves over the roof, but certainly harder for the tall. However, I can't complain as this is not very often the case.
crispygts 21 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Nice moves over the crux, but what the hell happens at the top? do you go left to the high belay or finish at the double bolts in line with the rest of the route???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice moves over the crux, but what the hell happens at the top? do you go left to the high belay or finish at the double bolts in line with the rest of the route???

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
White Rave

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Dancing Ledge)

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