UKC

Notoriously hard to onsight. One of the most striking lines on the Main Cliff and the hardest of the three star E5s - hence the E6 grade! Combined with Positron's 3rd pitch makes for one of the best routes of the grade in the Stratosphere. Start up the slanting crackline to the right of the Dinosaur Chimney.
1. 6b.Steep bridging up the crack leads to a series of committing layback and undercut moves to reach a small roof (crucial runner). From here, a very unobvious sequence of blind slaps will probably not establish you in the groove above. Follow this easily to the Positron belay. Take cam 4 and a 1/2.
2. Climb the chimney of Rat Race, then slabs to reach the Cordon Bleu traverse line and belay. (I thought you were supposed to exit left after a few metres and climb the difficult groove?) Yes, the exit left is the proper line, hard and hairy - probably through lack of traffic.
3. Move right to the base of an obvious crackline and follow this, very sustained, to a difficult move leftwards out of the top of the crack (lots of medium cams useful).

Pat Littlejohn 1980.

Ticklists

James' 2015 Summer. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
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Route of Interest
The Final Front-Ear

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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