UKC

24m. Start from ledges below and right of the large oak at the right end of the grassy bay. A straightforward abseil from the tree at the top right of the crag was used on the first ascent. It is located between Gowbarrow Bastion (HVS) and the second pitch of Gowbarrow Buttress (VS). It shares part of P3 of the Girdle Traverse (HVS).

This climb ascends corner and groove system on the left of the steep headwall that is the centrepiece of the upper crag. The groove features some technical moves on rough rock.

From the right end of the block covered ledge boldly gain the short slab using a layaway (junction with the Girdle Traverse P3). Move left into the corner and ascend its left wall steeply until a ledge is reached on the left (as for the Girdle Traverse P3). Fix runners and make a rising traverse rightwards to a shallow gear slot in the groove. Move back up and left (crux) until easier rock leads to the top.

M March, K Roberts, P Rigby 02/Sep/2017.

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Route of Interest
The Bracken-Clock

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Pavey Ark)

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