A long and interesting route, but watch out for ants' nests! Care is needed with the rock in places especially at the belay at the end of P3 and the blocks near the top of P4. Start at a narrow rib of rock that heads up through moss and heather to a tree.
1) 4a, 14m. Climb the rib of rock past a tree and heather to another tree and belay.
2) 4c, 22m. Move up into the groove on the left and then head left to the rib of the buttress. Take the rib on its left side to a large ledge and belay.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb down the corner on the right of the belay ledge for 4m and then traverse right to a tiny tree. Climb up then rightwards via some tricky moves to a belay below an overhang and next to a large unstable block.
4) 4b, 18m. Move left under the overhang and climb the left-facing corners and grooves above to a ledge and tree belay.
5) 4c, 18m. Move left to a thin crack and follow this and the rib above it to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the toe of the first rib that reaches the path when approaching from the Lodore Hotel.
P1. Climb the broken rock and moss to a tree belay below a groove.
P2. 4c. Step left above the tree into the groove, then move left around the arete. Climb up the slaby wall on positive holds. Step right onto a ledge.
P3. 4c. Step down off the ledge to the right, and skip over the ant hill. Traverse further right for about 5m to a small tree then climb diagonally up and right to the blocks of doubtful stability under the black roof.
P4. Step back left and climb a steep corner, keeping left, to a ledge.
P5. Step onto the fine slab on the left, and traverse left to the arete, then up this to a heathery finish. Tree belay below a scruffy wall.
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