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110m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long and interesting route, but watch out for ants' nests! Care is needed with the rock in places especially at the belay at the end of P3 and the blocks near the top of P4. Start at a narrow rib of rock that heads up through moss and heather to a tree.
1) 4a, 14m. Climb the rib of rock past a tree and heather to another tree and belay.
2) 4c, 22m. Move up into the groove on the left and then head left to the rib of the buttress. Take the rib on its left side to a large ledge and belay.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb down the corner on the right of the belay ledge for 4m and then traverse right to a tiny tree. Climb up then rightwards via some tricky moves to a belay below an overhang and next to a large unstable block.
4) 4b, 18m. Move left under the overhang and climb the left-facing corners and grooves above to a ledge and tree belay.
5) 4c, 18m. Move left to a thin crack and follow this and the rib above it to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start at the toe of the first rib that reaches the path when approaching from the Lodore Hotel.
P1. Climb the broken rock and moss to a tree belay below a groove.
P2. 4c. Step left above the tree into the groove, then move left around the arete. Climb up the slaby wall on positive holds. Step right onto a ledge.
P3. 4c. Step down off the ledge to the right, and skip over the ant hill. Traverse further right for about 5m to a small tree then climb diagonally up and right to the blocks of doubtful stability under the black roof.
P4. Step back left and climb a steep corner, keeping left, to a ledge.
P5. Step onto the fine slab on the left, and traverse left to the arete, then up this to a heathery finish. Tree belay below a scruffy wall.

Ticklists

Great VS Climbs in the Lake District, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Best 25 BORROWDALE VS/HVS's, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Select VS Climbs in the Lake District, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Nuts of Legends, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District

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User Date Notes
Simon Mee 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 was hard to get any reliable protection in after about 1/3 up! I'm pretty good at finding & fiddling gear in anywhere, but this felt really serious. A reasonably sustained 4c pitch, but serious, so for that reason I would suggest an overall grade of HVS 4c and 2 star
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 was hard to get any reliable protection in after about 1/3 up! I'm pretty good at finding & fiddling gear in anywhere, but this felt really serious. A reasonably sustained 4c pitch, but serious, so for that reason I would suggest an overall grade of HVS 4c and 2 star
Simon Mee 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 was hard to get any reliable protection in after about 1/3 up! I'm pretty good at finding & fiddling gear in anywhere, but this felt really serious. A resonably sustained 4c pitch, but serious, so for that reason I would suggest an overall grade of HVS 4c and 2 star
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 was hard to get any reliable protection in after about 1/3 up! I'm pretty good at finding & fiddling gear in anywhere, but this felt really serious. A resonably sustained 4c pitch, but serious, so for that reason I would suggest an overall grade of HVS 4c and 2 star

Logged Ascents

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 61
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
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DNF
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Route of Interest

Sinister Grooves

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Buckstone How)