2 pitches.
Ephemeral alpine ice line on the west face of Grand Teton in between the enclosure couloir and west face of grand teton.
You will need to circumnavigate the south side of the grand to get from the lower saddle to the western side. Google beta on the Valhalla Traverse. When you reach the enclosure couloir look across the couloir for some snow fields or ledges. You want to aim for the second of these (see photo), which looks like it leads to a dead end, but the dead end turns into nice mixed climbing (M3) or easy rock (5.6-5.7). This deposits you at the bottom of the black ice couloir. Climb the couloir. At the choke point take the right (AI3) or left (AI4, more mixed, a named variation, not the BIC anymore). After the choke point climb to the top where you'll find the upper saddle. Alternatively climb across to the west face and finish via George Lowe's BIC to west face link up. Jackson-Ortenburger guide has good beta on this.
Don't expect ice throughout. This no longer forms as black ice as far as I know, but rather as seasonal alpine ice. The best season is May-July depending on the season. Were it ice top to bottom like in the old days, this would be an 8 pitch route. Instead, be happy if you get two pitches of ice at the choke. The ice can be good, though, and the west side is a fun place to be.
You will need to circumnavigate the south side of the grand to get from the lower saddle to the western side. Google beta on the Valhalla Traverse. When you reach the enclosure couloir look across the couloir for some snow fields or ledges. You want to aim for the second of these (see photo), which looks like it leads to a dead end, but the dead end turns into nice mixed climbing (M3) or easy rock (5.6-5.7). This deposits you at the bottom of the black ice couloir. Climb the couloir. At the choke point take the right (AI3) or left (AI4, more mixed, a named variation, not the BIC anymore). After the choke point climb to the top where you'll find the upper saddle. Alternatively climb across to the west face and finish via George Lowe's BIC to west face link up. Jackson-Ortenburger guide has good beta on this.
Don't expect ice throughout. This no longer forms as black ice as far as I know, but rather as seasonal alpine ice. The best season is May-July depending on the season. Were it ice top to bottom like in the old days, this would be an 8 pitch route. Instead, be happy if you get two pitches of ice at the choke. The ice can be good, though, and the west side is a fun place to be.
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