UKC

90m, 3 pitches. This climb is situated on the outcrop to the right of Greek Buttress.

A bold climb that follows the soaring right–hand edge of the buttress. Pitch one is a well–protected, three–star HVS 5a in its own right. Go carefully as there is still some loose rock around.
1. 30m. 5a. Climb the steep crack to a ledge. From here it is possible to downclimb carefully to the left (rope advised), or…
2. 30m. 5a. From the belay, climb the right wall to a V notch on the arete. Pull around this (large wires on the left) and continue boldly (hopeful microwires) on poor–looking rock up the arete to a detached flake (larger gear) in a fantastic, airy position. Rock over onto the flake, praying it doesn’t come off the crag, and continue up cracks above to a belay on the left where things ease. …and breathe.
3. 30m. 4c. Continue up chimneys and wide cracks to a large bay on the left (spike belay).
Descent possible in the gully to the left of the crag (looking in).

David Glover & Jake Simpson 20/Feb/2025.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest
Sorry Pam

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Aktil Edge)

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