Rockfax Description
270m. At magnificent, direct line from the foot of the slabs to the summit. The start is about 50m to the left of the grassy gully bordering the right side of the slabs.
1. 60m 4b A long first pitch up grooves, cracks, walls and corners leads to a good belay at the left end of a grass ledge.
2. 60m 4b Another long pitch with possible intermediate belays leads to the left end of a terrace below the upper slabs. The terrace runs beneath an overlap which slants up from right to left . here are now two options:
3a. 60m 4b From the left end of the terrace, follow a thin crack-line up and over the two principal overlaps. Continue up a more defined crack (possible belay) which leads toward Golden Gully. Just below a grass ledge climb up to the upper cracks and belay below or above a small overlap.
3b. 60m 4b/4c From the right end of the terrace, where it meets the overlap, follow a thin crack through the next overlap with reasonable protection to where it fades, then move into the crack on the left to continue as for 3a. Instead of moving left, it is better but harder to continue straight up the slab over two minor overlaps and up the right side of a dark streak with the odd bit of protection, to reach a belay at the small overlap beneath the upper cracks.
4, 5. 90m 4b, 4a A choice of lines up various cracks lead to an abrupt finish at the summit. It is also possible to slant up right to join the upper crack-line of Lochlann.
FA R.Sharp, W.Sproul, 8 Jun 1969 © Rockfax

FA. Russel Sharp, Bill Sproul 08/Jun/1969.

Ticklists

Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , Lewis & Harris starred VSs , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , Greg's bucket list

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