UKC

3798m, 20 pitches. From the Studlhutte zigzag up loose scree path for around 200m before crossing moraine and skirting the RHS of the glacier for a few hundred metres to the start of the Studlgrat proper. Various starting points from the toe of the buttress (harder but more solid) to higher up the LHS which is easier but much looser.

Ascend largely on the LHS of the ridge by a combination of moving together, soloing or pitching depending on experience, confidence and conditions. Loose rock, snow, ice and the possibility of climbers above may increase risk factors. Use your own judgement not other's climbing style to decide. Very solid steel bolts and steel poles show the way and provide good protection but a selection of slings and a couple of large nuts will be helpful. No need for any small wires.

The Frustruck (Breakfast Ledge) appears 750m above the hut. The final 250m climbing contains the harder pitches including the slippery slabs protected by a number of good bolts and an A0 pull on a fixed knotted rope onto the section of wall with fixed steel cable.

Finally the summit cross appears with easier terrain to finish.

The descent via the Kleinerglockner should not be underestimated - more loose rock, scree, snow and ascending/descending climbers suggest a cautious approach. Many accidents happen here and every year climbers die on this section. Continue roped up and if in doubt, belay sections using the steel poles. The Erzhog Johann Hut can be reached after 350m descent.

Continue down the steep rocky path - some via ferrata sections - to the glacier. Cross the bergschrund using a short section of rope for assistance and continue down the glacier back to the Studlhutte. Several large crevasses - sensible to stay roped.

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