Search across the entire UKC database for Routes or Crags.
Your query will be matched against the following:
Name of Route/Crags
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Name of Buttress (for routes)
Rock Type eg. granite, gritstorne, sandstone etc
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E.g. Froggatt HVS-E1 ** Grit
Surround multiple words with double quotes to require a match on that phrase, eg "bat route" malham
Asterisks get special treatment in search queries. A sequence of them is considered to be a star rating for a route, so
treated as 1-star, ** treated as 2-stars and *** treated as 3-stars. Typing just one sequence
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most two stars".
As above with stars, but with grades. Eg vs-e1 will match routes with a grade of either VS,
HVS or E1.
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Date ranges will check against the first-ascent date field and require the route to have been put up between the start date and
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Difficulty for grade
We've calculated a value based on the grade voting system that assigns a route a value from one of:
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the text in pipes, you'll just be searching the other text fields, so soft, with no pipes, would get you a match if
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A continuation of this system which uses the same syntax allows you to search for routes that are voted to be a completely
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Regular expressions, for those that don't know, are a way of describing patterns in strings. They are a very powerful tool for
searching and manipulating text, and completely unnecessary in this route search bar. However, if you do want to use them,
they are possible by surrounding the expression with forward slashes, eg /chris (?!craggs)/ will match any routes
that mention 'chris' but not those that mention 'chris craggs'. Or e2-e3
/crap|damp|horrible/ will return you a list of probably not classic routes.
Note that pure-regex queries are not allowed due to the cost of the queries against the database. You should always add any of
the other query types mentioned above if you're using a regex.
Finally, if you precede any text with a minus character you will negate it and require that it is not matched, eg -"mark
leach" bat malham.
3798m, 20 pitches.
From the Studlhutte zigzag up loose scree path for around 200m before crossing moraine and skirting the RHS of the glacier for a few hundred metres to the start of the Studlgrat proper. Various starting points from the toe of the buttress (harder but more solid) to higher up the LHS which is easier but much looser.
Ascend largely on the LHS of the ridge by a combination of moving together, soloing or pitching depending on experience, confidence and conditions. Loose rock, snow, ice and the possibility of climbers above may increase risk factors. Use your own judgement not other's climbing style to decide. Very solid steel bolts and steel poles show the way and provide good protection but a selection of slings and a couple of large nuts will be helpful. No need for any small wires.
The Frustruck (Breakfast Ledge) appears 750m above the hut. The final 250m climbing contains the harder pitches including the slippery slabs protected by a number of good bolts and an A0 pull on a fixed knotted rope onto the section of wall with fixed steel cable.
Finally the summit cross appears with easier terrain to finish.
The descent via the Kleinerglockner should not be underestimated - more loose rock, scree, snow and ascending/descending climbers suggest a cautious approach. Many accidents happen here and every year climbers die on this section. Continue roped up and if in doubt, belay sections using the steel poles. The Erzhog Johann Hut can be reached after 350m descent.
Continue down the steep rocky path - some via ferrata sections - to the glacier. Cross the bergschrund using a short section of rope for assistance and continue down the glacier back to the Studlhutte. Several large crevasses - sensible to stay roped.