UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply between the Dancing Ledge and Valkyrie Buttress Direct, and also east of The Razor's Edge.

50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A big route taking a huge diagonal line to finish at a high leaning chimney. Start near the right-hand side of the low cave roof.
1) 6c, 30m. Go direct over two roofs (peg and wedge) to join Race for the Oasis. Traverse 10m left under the roofs (thread and 3 old studs) to a peg. Power around the roof and continue up the steep wall (2 threads and a peg) to a small recessed ledge. Peg and nut belay. Watch out for rope drag.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb the bulging wall above from the left-hand side (thread) to a jutting ledge (thread). Finish diagonally leftwards, on shattered rock, to exit up the chimney. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley, Jon Biddle. Formerly an A3 aid route. 12/Feb/1988.

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Guidebooks for Guillemot Ledge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
Nowhere to Run

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Hedbury)

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