Rockfax Description
A popular but wandering outing. Start below a big flake crack in a steep wall 60m east of the abseil (right - looking in).
1) 4b, 25m. A crack leads up rightwards to gain a flake. Follow this to its top. Climb a corner on the right to the faultline, then traverse right to belay on a ledge.
2) 4a, 15m. Step right off the ledge then move up for 5m. Traverse left to reach the quarry. Care required with loose flakes. © Rockfax
FA. D.Burgess, J.Allen, R.Colledge 11/Apr/1966.
Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Bruise Apprentice | 6 Aug |
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βeta: The seagulls are long gone. Ledge looking fairly clean after the massive storm yesterday. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The seagulls are long gone. Ledge looking fairly clean after the massive storm yesterday. |
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Steve Woods | 17 Jul |
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βeta: Two young seagulls still taking residence on the belay ledge. They were relativity calm and let us climb past and on our way up the second pitch. Maybe better to leave it one or two more weeks and they will probably be gone. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Two young seagulls still taking residence on the belay ledge. They were relativity calm and let us climb past and on our way up the second pitch. Maybe better to leave it one or two more weeks and they will probably be gone. |
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dinodinosaur | 3 May |
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βeta: Currently an in-situ seagull on the belay | βeta? | |
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βeta: Currently an in-situ seagull on the belay |
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JimOakleyAdventures | 1 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Nice ab in 2hrs either side of Swanage LW. Lots of gear in back wall. Nice climb up to belay ledge nd moved slightly right to get better gear in. Don’t traverse right more than 3m from here and found the top part of the E2 was okay, rather than up the route in app that was a little choosy. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Nice ab in 2hrs either side of Swanage LW. Lots of gear in back wall. Nice climb up to belay ledge nd moved slightly right to get better gear in. Don’t traverse right more than 3m from here and found the top part of the E2 was okay, rather than up the route in app that was a little choosy. |
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eldre070 | 6 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Good first pitch on good rock with good protection. Lots of rope drag though even with double ropes! My first multi-pitch lead. Thought 4b was perfect. | ||
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βeta: Good first pitch on good rock with good protection. Lots of rope drag though even with double ropes! My first multi-pitch lead. Thought 4b was perfect. |
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Wilbur | 16 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: First pitch sounded hollow most of the way up the layback crack/flake. not ideal for your confidence! | βeta? | |
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βeta: First pitch sounded hollow most of the way up the layback crack/flake. not ideal for your confidence! |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Cormorant Ledge)