UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply between the Dancing Ledge and Valkyrie Buttress Direct, and also east of The Razor's Edge.

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A popular but wandering outing. Start below a big flake crack in a steep wall 60m east of the abseil (right - looking in).
1) 4b, 25m. A crack leads up rightwards to gain a flake. Follow this to its top. Climb a corner on the right to the faultline, then traverse right to belay on a ledge.
2) 4a, 15m. Step right off the ledge then move up for 5m. Traverse left to reach the quarry. Care required with loose flakes. © Rockfax

FA. D.Burgess, J.Allen, R.Colledge 11/Apr/1966.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012

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User Date Notes
Bruise Apprentice 6 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The seagulls are long gone. Ledge looking fairly clean after the massive storm yesterday.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The seagulls are long gone. Ledge looking fairly clean after the massive storm yesterday.
Steve Woods 17 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Two young seagulls still taking residence on the belay ledge. They were relativity calm and let us climb past and on our way up the second pitch. Maybe better to leave it one or two more weeks and they will probably be gone.
βeta?
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βeta: Two young seagulls still taking residence on the belay ledge. They were relativity calm and let us climb past and on our way up the second pitch. Maybe better to leave it one or two more weeks and they will probably be gone.
dinodinosaur 3 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Currently an in-situ seagull on the belay
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Currently an in-situ seagull on the belay
JimOakleyAdventures 1 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Nice ab in 2hrs either side of Swanage LW. Lots of gear in back wall. Nice climb up to belay ledge nd moved slightly right to get better gear in. Don’t traverse right more than 3m from here and found the top part of the E2 was okay, rather than up the route in app that was a little choosy.
Show beta
βeta: Nice ab in 2hrs either side of Swanage LW. Lots of gear in back wall. Nice climb up to belay ledge nd moved slightly right to get better gear in. Don’t traverse right more than 3m from here and found the top part of the E2 was okay, rather than up the route in app that was a little choosy.
eldre070 6 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Good first pitch on good rock with good protection. Lots of rope drag though even with double ropes! My first multi-pitch lead. Thought 4b was perfect.
Show beta
βeta: Good first pitch on good rock with good protection. Lots of rope drag though even with double ropes! My first multi-pitch lead. Thought 4b was perfect.
Wilbur 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch sounded hollow most of the way up the layback crack/flake. not ideal for your confidence!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch sounded hollow most of the way up the layback crack/flake. not ideal for your confidence!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 78
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Temporary Lifestyle

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Cave Hole)

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