UKC

Rockfax Description
A nice little route on good rock and with a relatively solid finish. Climb up the left side of the black overhang and continue up the vertical, cracked wall with interest to finish on a good ledge on the right. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Finklaire, B.Etheridge 1976.

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z , Orange Spot Swanage , SW Climbs - Swanage , SPA Training Minimum Requirement , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
Chriscan'tclimb 29 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I don't see why Tensor II gets Top 50 while this route doesn't - it is far more fun to climb with nice flowy moves unlike its competition.
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βeta: I don't see why Tensor II gets Top 50 while this route doesn't - it is far more fun to climb with nice flowy moves unlike its competition.
chawn_met 13 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Exciting, sustained route on good rock. I didn\'t see the loose block that some people have been reporting.
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βeta: Exciting, sustained route on good rock. I didn't see the loose block that some people have been reporting.
mattprince 19 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block around half way - same as other comments. Tried to knock off as someone is going to grab it as a hand hold but still there. Someone needs to ab down with a crowbar as this is going to land on a belayer
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βeta: Loose block around half way - same as other comments. Tried to knock off as someone is going to grab it as a hand hold but still there. Someone needs to ab down with a crowbar as this is going to land on a belayer
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 18 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Keep your eyes out for the jutting block at around a third height. It’s extremely loose and moves a lot, but not quite enough to prize it out. Only a matter of time, so any future seconds may wish to give it another wobble, as it’s probably best out.
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βeta: Keep your eyes out for the jutting block at around a third height. It’s extremely loose and moves a lot, but not quite enough to prize it out. Only a matter of time, so any future seconds may wish to give it another wobble, as it’s probably best out.
Go_Climb_A_Rock 30 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose obvious hold. I tried to free it but no luck.
βeta?
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βeta: Loose obvious hold. I tried to free it but no luck.
Katsmiff 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah nice route. Tricky bouldery start. Lots of sound gear to be had. Went straight up the crack at the end instead of to the right, which after reading everyone’s description sounds like a better idea as I belayed from a rock and ledge instead of a chossy ending and belaying from a fence post.
βeta?
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βeta: Yeah nice route. Tricky bouldery start. Lots of sound gear to be had. Went straight up the crack at the end instead of to the right, which after reading everyone’s description sounds like a better idea as I belayed from a rock and ledge instead of a chossy ending and belaying from a fence post.
ian bryant 2 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: the description in the CC guide is very different to this. i thought i'd done this route at the weekend but it was nothing like this description and was way too far away from the abseil pipe anchor to use as a belay at the top. the route we did was about 10m west of the abseil line and followed a broken crack/groove (as per the CC guide) - it was good all the same!
βeta?
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βeta: the description in the CC guide is very different to this. i thought i'd done this route at the weekend but it was nothing like this description and was way too far away from the abseil pipe anchor to use as a belay at the top. the route we did was about 10m west of the abseil line and followed a broken crack/groove (as per the CC guide) - it was good all the same!
GrahamD 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A real gem - sort of Quality Street's baby brother.
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βeta: A real gem - sort of Quality Street's baby brother.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Guillemot Ledge

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 65
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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