A much-attempted route that features a spectacular and powerful top pitch. Upgraded from E1 as one of the pegs is now gone. Start beneath a huge rectangular depression that meets the overhangs at the faultline.
1) 4b, 18m. From right of the low overhangs, move leftwards above them and climb the steady wall, with little in the way of gear, to a thread and nut belay in the rectangular depression.
2) 5b, 16m. Gain the faultline beneath the overhang and move left to an arete (large cam useful). Pull over the roof (peg) to reach the next roofs. Traverse rightwards underneath these and finish up a crack, past a bulge to the top. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, K.Winkworth 03/Apr/1972.
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