UKC

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A much-attempted route that features a spectacular and powerful top pitch. Upgraded from E1 as one of the pegs is now gone. Start beneath a huge rectangular depression that meets the overhangs at the faultline.
1) 4b, 18m. From right of the low overhangs, move leftwards above them and climb the steady wall, with little in the way of gear, to a thread and nut belay in the rectangular depression.
2) 5b, 16m. Gain the faultline beneath the overhang and move left to an arete (large cam useful). Pull over the roof (peg) to reach the next roofs. Traverse rightwards underneath these and finish up a crack, past a bulge to the top. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, K.Winkworth 03/Apr/1972.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
SiobhanStraver 25 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Don't belay your second too tight or the pre-roof sections will be torture for them. Pulled out a broken bit of sling at the belay, which had a small bit of rock attached to it- I think this may have been the 'thread' part of the thread and nut belay, which is now a flake. Plenty of places for gear (nuts, cam) at the belay still.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't belay your second too tight or the pre-roof sections will be torture for them. Pulled out a broken bit of sling at the belay, which had a small bit of rock attached to it- I think this may have been the 'thread' part of the thread and nut belay, which is now a flake. Plenty of places for gear (nuts, cam) at the belay still.
Iain Weymouth 11 Apr Show βeta
βeta: P2 Take a brush! Lower peg after the lip is shiny and looks recent... thank you to the Pixies! Deployed a heel hook... at my age! Super route, well chuffed!
Show beta
βeta: P2 Take a brush! Lower peg after the lip is shiny and looks recent... thank you to the Pixies! Deployed a heel hook... at my age! Super route, well chuffed!
Ramon Marin 18 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found quite hard to get positioned below the first roof. I went from sentry box following the roof, and it was hard to get the jug above it. My partner went on the arete from the very beginning and found it much easier. oh well.
Show beta
βeta: I found quite hard to get positioned below the first roof. I went from sentry box following the roof, and it was hard to get the jug above it. My partner went on the arete from the very beginning and found it much easier. oh well.
GrahamD 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The hard part is commiting to get into position to pull through the roof rather than the move itself. The peg over the roof looks pretty much brand new and safe as houses.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The hard part is commiting to get into position to pull through the roof rather than the move itself. The peg over the roof looks pretty much brand new and safe as houses.
ian bryant 13 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: make sure to keep something in reserve for after the roof 'cos it's certainly not all over once you clip the peg.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: make sure to keep something in reserve for after the roof 'cos it's certainly not all over once you clip the peg.

Logged Ascents

222 users have logged this
25 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 66
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Ximenes

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)
Loading Notifications...