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35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A big pitch with quality moves but little gear. Start beneath a large roof at 15m.
1) 5c, 15m. A short wall leads to a ledge (peg). Move left (peg) then climb direct on blind edges to a ledge. Serious.
2) 5b, 20m. Follow a corner and trend right then left past a fault-line to a nose (peg). Traverse left to a V-shaped overhang. © Rockfax

FA. B.Snell, W.Lyons. FFA. George Hounsome, G.De Lacy 07/Apr/1974.

Feedback

User Date Notes
The Jazz Butcher 5 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very bold. This is a scary E4 not E3. The peg is poor and there is little other reliable gear. A cluster of small things in a flake on the right might slow you down a bit, maybe! Good moves, but as Steve says "pretty harrowing" Do not fall off this one!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very bold. This is a scary E4 not E3. The peg is poor and there is little other reliable gear. A cluster of small things in a flake on the right might slow you down a bit, maybe! Good moves, but as Steve says "pretty harrowing" Do not fall off this one!

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 6
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest

Melpomene

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)