At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 274m a.s.l
Anyone know what this is? © Carless
Some fine rock with truly impressive climbs that follow strong features. Unfortunately it rises from a jungle/jumble of overgrown boulders. Once acquainted with the crag, the cognoscenti will know where to approach their chosen route by abseil. Persevere and you will be rewarded!
Many new problems and boulders have been added since the start of 2018 and development is ongoing.
Approach as for the large lay-by at the top of Nought Bank or park in Glasshouses and take the Six Dales Trail up through the woods.
|Visited today and did Comet Wall which needed no cleaning (start from the cave after scramble approach). Also Double Top which also needed no cleaning and is a classic brawl to top out (E1 5b probably). Went to finish up on Magnificat which was a bit grubbier but still climable (probably more like E1, its tough!) if you take the right route, unlike me.|
Will Hunt - 16/May/14
|Went for an explore today, and was pleasantly surprised. Given the poor reputation of the place, much of it looked fairly clean. North Buttress (which is probably where most people head for first) is by far the dirtiest, wettest, most vegetated of the main buttresses.
I started at the far end. No 2 buttress looked particularly good (note, contrary to what the book says it is NOT directly below the mast, but a few hundred metres west (as per the sketch map). Roc's Nest Chimney on No 4 looked inviting, though appears to have nesting kestrels (or similar) at the moment. Hawk Slab (starred Severe on No 5) was invisible behind the vegetation, but the routes between Jezebel and Boundary Chimney all looked good and clean.
I walked along the bottom of the crag, for its full length. From No 1 Buttress to the start of Long Wall, the going is mostly quite straightforward, though you have to watch out for big holes in places. From there to North Buttress Block was much less pleasant, but the final section to North Buttress is easy, with a well-worn path.
I was on my own so just soloed 1.5 Diffs, but will definitely be back for more.|
Simon Caldwell - 24/Jul/10
|Very overgrown at the moment, making it difficult to find the top of routes, and to then probably climb them. Would give it a miss until Autumn ..... or spring!|
Matt Bill Platypus - 28/Jul/08
|Really only suitable for adventure botanists. The path below the crag is an adventure in itself. The crag could do with a clean-up and a lot more traffic but the north facing nature of it means that this is unlikely. Shame really, nice-looking climbs, lots of them and tall.|
heidavey - 12/May/08
|Sadly, this is not a good crag. Even the 3 star HVSs are sprouting heather all over the place, and seem to remain wet in places even after a long dry spell. The abseil descent necessary for many of the routes doesn't help either as you will probably find yourself committed to fighting your way back up something anyway. Insteading of heading here go to Eavestone, which is similar and nearby, but infinitely better.|
jamiemoss - 12/Jun/06