UKC

385m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine, long, friction slab route. The third pitch offers the best climbing. All belays are equipped for abseil.
Approach - From the campground/parking area follow a well-worn path rightwards along the base of the mountain gradually rising, passing some very good boulders. Look out for bolts with orange hangers below a left-facing groove a hundred metres up. 30 mins.
1) N5-, 55m. A fully bolted slab pitch.
2) N5+, 55m. Another fully bolted slab pitch leads to a belay at a small ledge.
3) N5+, 55m. The best pitch of the climb. Climb diagonally right towards the groove with a big crack in it. Climb this and its continuation to a belay on top of a flake. Two bolts are found where it matters.
4) N5, 20m. A short pitch through a small roof, which is well protected.
5) N5-, 55m. Follow a groove and extend your runners to avoid rope-drag. A bolt near the end of the pitch shows the way to the belay.
6) N5-, 55m. Climb the rest of the groove and continue along a nice crack.
7) N5-, 60m. The angle eases but the holds get smaller. A pure friction pitch which can be done with 55m ropes and some rope stretch.
8) N5-, 60m. More friction leads to the top. If you don't have 60m ropes your second needs to follow before you reach the belay. Alternatively you can traverse out to the right and the top belay on the neighbour route Sternschnuppe (unprotected).
Descent - Either abseil down the route or, from the top of the mountain, follow the ridge west (plenty of cairns) and pass one steep section before you head down a slab into a gully that cuts across your path. Turn right and descend more steeply, down a very well-worn path through the woods. This path joins a blue-marked path that leads down to the road beneath Hægefjell. Follow the road back to the camp. The descent takes approximately 1.5 hours. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A slabby sports/trad climb initially following a line of orange bolts. Graded n5- in the online guide, UIAA 5+ in the Gå Telemark guide, and n5+ in the Rockfax guide, although maybe the latter has confused the UIAA grading?

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Slabucation

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User Date Notes
paaljt 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Started on neighboring route with orange bolts (Hilti Voran?) rapped off first belay and on to correct start. Offwidth superfun and good sole friction. Good pro and adequate bolting were needed. never felt exposed. Followed on last slab pitch wrong bolts, the ones to the left had to do a mid transfer to correct route. no probl. Nice route! A bit confusing the grading from routing in the pdfs where slabs are around 3-4 and hightest grade are 5-.. norw vs. german grades?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Started on neighboring route with orange bolts (Hilti Voran?) rapped off first belay and on to correct start. Offwidth superfun and good sole friction. Good pro and adequate bolting were needed. never felt exposed. Followed on last slab pitch wrong bolts, the ones to the left had to do a mid transfer to correct route. no probl. Nice route! A bit confusing the grading from routing in the pdfs where slabs are around 3-4 and hightest grade are 5-.. norw vs. german grades?
Dorte Bjerre Steensgaard 22 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The route has been rebolted and it is not any longer recognized by having orange bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route has been rebolted and it is not any longer recognized by having orange bolts.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Hægefjell

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Voting
High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
High n5
Mid n5
Low n5
High n5-
Mid n5-
Low n5-
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kjærringa

Grade: n5+ ***
(Valle)

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