500m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This route follows the large groove in the left side of Hægefjell's south face. The route is completely naturally protected and offers a combination of friction, crack and groove climbing. It is useful to bring some bigger cams.
Approach - From the campground/parking area follow the road along the base of the mountain. For Hægar continue until you are under the large groove and walk straight up to it. Tip: try to locate the most worn path as this is the best.
1) N5, 50m. Follow crack formations more or less straight up. Most people choose to solo the first lower-angled slabs and where you start depends on how far you are willing to walk/solo up before you put on a rope.
2) N6, 30m. Further friction climbing up flakes leads to a friction move to gain a ledge. (Large cam needed). Arrange a belay at the ledge above.
3) N4+, 45m. Climb diagonally along a ramp to gain the bottom of the large groove and continue up this. Belay on a grassy ledge (or do the next short pitch as well if you have 60m ropes).
4) 15m. Continue to the next grassy ledge.
5) N6+, 40m. Climb the beautiful groove with finger-sized crack - strenuous at the start - and continue up to a spectacular finish turning the lip. Belay in an alcove just above.
6) N5+, 50m. Follow the big crack leftwards. It is better climbed by friction on the left side but it is also possible to climb as a chimney/offwith. Belay where the angle eases.
7) 45m. Easy climbing leads to the bottom of the second groove.
8) N5+, 45m. Climb the flaky groove to a belay in a brilliant position.
9) 50m. Climb slabby terrain to a grass ledge. From here it is possible to walk off to the left.
Descent - From the top of the mountain, follow the ridge west (plenty of cairns) and pass one steep section before you head down a slab into a gully that cuts across your path. Turn right and descend more steeply, down a very well-worn path through the woods. This path joins a blue-marked path that leads down to the road beneath Hægefjell. Follow the road back to the camp. The descent takes approximately 1.5 hours. © Rockfax

FA. 1988 by either ?yvind Moss and H. Lykkja or G?tz Wiechmann, T. Metscher, S. Bernert and U. Wilkening. 15/Jun/1988.


User Date Notes
MrRiley 31 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The sting can be taken out of the runout immediately after the slab crux moves by placing a 00 cam in the small flake on the right of the rail
Show beta
βeta: The sting can be taken out of the runout immediately after the slab crux moves by placing a 00 cam in the small flake on the right of the rail

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Hægefjell

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High n7-
Mid n7-
Low n7-
High n6+
Mid n6+
Low n6+
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hoph Zing

Grade: n6+ ***

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