15m.
A sharp, crimpy route that takes the steepest section of the crag between ‘Too Baldly Go’ and ‘Sea of Knobs’.
Start as for ‘Too Baldly Go’ and climb the crack to the obvious small ledge at 3m. From the ledge place a good nut and step left 1m into the centre of the steepest section of the wall. Climb this on sharp crimps, knobs and small pockets till the angle eases and you reach the break. At the break it may be possible to arrange some protection; however, due to the lack of footholds it’s easier (but bolder) to continue to the sloping ledge at 12m. Mantle onto the ledge and place a cam at your feet. The angle eases again from here. Lay-back and climb the rightwards sloping crack that crosses the slab until the crack runs out. Hold your breath, and top out with two handfuls of heather.
Start as for ‘Too Baldly Go’ and climb the crack to the obvious small ledge at 3m. From the ledge place a good nut and step left 1m into the centre of the steepest section of the wall. Climb this on sharp crimps, knobs and small pockets till the angle eases and you reach the break. At the break it may be possible to arrange some protection; however, due to the lack of footholds it’s easier (but bolder) to continue to the sloping ledge at 12m. Mantle onto the ledge and place a cam at your feet. The angle eases again from here. Lay-back and climb the rightwards sloping crack that crosses the slab until the crack runs out. Hold your breath, and top out with two handfuls of heather.
Craig McMahon / Vickie McMahon 26/Jun/2013.
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Route of Interest
The Technician
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Long Band Crag)