UKC

Climbs 57
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 229m a.s.l
Faces N

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Andi Turner executes the top crux of Pair O' Genes (direct). © Jon Read

Crag features

Harston Rock is the Upper Churnet's pièce de résistance, offering a handful of very fine routes on good rock with an imposing position above a beautiful and heavily wooded valley floor. The open nature lends itself to cleanliness not seen on the neighbouring buttresses, and its inspiring steepness has caused it to be home to the area's two hardest climbs.

The small bluffs littered along the rim of the valley are currently in a very poor state and the climbs within the Devil's Rock buttresses are best avoided.

Approach notes

Park in the small layby on the outskirts of Whiston. Walk back down the hill to the sharp bend and follow a farm track to its end at a farmhouse. 50m beyond the farm, the path crosses the ridge and the first buttress is 30m above the ridge line. The rest of the buttresses are strung along the ridge from here. Best to ignore all these and continue along the main track to Harston Rock, 400m further on, where it can be seen 30m up on the right.

An alternative approach is from the large carpark at Froghall Wharf and follow the Staffordshire Moorlands Walk until the crag looms high above the hillside, maybe 2 mins longer if you're not distracted by ice creams.

Been on a scouting trip today. Mainly over grown, green and dodgy. If you’re looking for easier grades this is not the place. One nice clean pinnacle but had to fight my way to it.
FiBowyer - 04/Jul/20
A fantastic chunk of perfect gritstone buried deep in the woodland behind Whiston in the Churnet Valley. Although occasionally green, it's free standing nature and magical surroundings tend to keep it in top-nick. Best visited in early spring or late autumn when the rock will be cleanest the temperatures most bearable and hopefully, the midges all dead!
andi turner - 08/Jun/06
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Climbs at this crag

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