UKC

Climbs 73
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces S

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Pain pillar © swintona95

Crag features

This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.
Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

Partially tidal. Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high tide.

Please read the restrictions section for bird nesting season and restrictions of access.  

April 2021 - The route Psylocible E2 has suffered significant rockfall. The large flakes at the crux are gone, leaving a large scoop of dirt. Grade is now unknown.

Approach notes

If driving from Mill Farm Road to Aberdour, take a left on A921 and quickly the first right onto Hawkcraig Rd. Park at one of the car parks and walk south east towards the lighthouse. The crag will be on the right facing south. 

An easy and short descent approach is possible on the eastern side of the crag to the base of the very first climbs on the right. Alternatively, and abseil on stakes further west is also possible. Furthermore, there is also the option to walk west down the path that leads to the Forth View Hotel and then walk back eastwards towards the crag, giving you the most impressive sight of the cliffs.

 

Access Advice

 

Beware of nesting seas birds from April through July. Chicks are vulnerable to being chilled or predated if the adult is away from the nest for a while due to climbers. 

*Tidal* - Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high-tide.

The best crag in Eastern Scotland for access by public transport, and very amenable for the biginner. The whole place feels very friendly, with good holds, protection and surprisingly rough rock. The place also has a great outlook, and routes are very enjoyable - not just Pain Pillar. The VS and HVS lines are very good, Guano would be a good first HVS lead, and the climbs out of the alcove on the west of the crag are lovely, Cranium Crack. The crag can catch the wind, but can also be sunny when Edinburgh isn't.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
Excellent climbing in the middle grades but can be loose in places so caution required.
Rooster - 25/Jan/03
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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