UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restiction applies to the whole of Hedbury Big Cove crag during nesting season.

Rockfax Description
Start up the wall just right of Produced by Fred Quimby and then break up right via some difficult moves and finish at the lower-off shared with Don's Long Gone. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Bolted June 2020.

Ticklists

Hedbury Sport Routes , Swanage Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gary K Duke 12 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: a great route but super scary, unless you don't mind climbing a sustained 2m crux above a bolt. the fall is nice and into space thankfully
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a great route but super scary, unless you don't mind climbing a sustained 2m crux above a bolt. the fall is nice and into space thankfully
Pottsy84 9 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Reading earlier comments, I do remember a random 4 in the middle of the crag from my first visit here when just starting out 18mths or so ago - assume it was this (I didn't look for it or try it). It is bolted now and 6a+ felt about right (as graded in new Rockfax / UKC) but the sequence for that grade isn't necessarily obvious. Crux is above gear - pre-equipping 3rd bolt with a 60cm alpine gives a psychological assist.
Show beta
βeta: Reading earlier comments, I do remember a random 4 in the middle of the crag from my first visit here when just starting out 18mths or so ago - assume it was this (I didn't look for it or try it). It is bolted now and 6a+ felt about right (as graded in new Rockfax / UKC) but the sequence for that grade isn't necessarily obvious. Crux is above gear - pre-equipping 3rd bolt with a 60cm alpine gives a psychological assist.
AidanBoyce1 18 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: This is not a 4 as in guide book ...6A+ or higher more accurate. Tough climb .
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is not a 4 as in guide book ...6A+ or higher more accurate. Tough climb .
Keiran.A 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: in my guidebook as a 4!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: in my guidebook as a 4!
JimOakleyAdventures 28 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good luck on this one !! Bolt 2 - 3 proper hard on small finger Jam 6a+ more like it
Show beta
βeta: Good luck on this one !! Bolt 2 - 3 proper hard on small finger Jam 6a+ more like it
RobertB 7 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route isn't really bolted. You can awkwardly use the first two bolts from the route to the left but after that you have a long unprotected section you will deck from if you fall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route isn't really bolted. You can awkwardly use the first two bolts from the route to the left but after that you have a long unprotected section you will deck from if you fall.

Logged Ascents

136 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Hedbury

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 32 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stalker's Zone

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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